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New member Username: Dcollister440Post Number: 3 Registered: Jun-11 | so i'm installing an older model metal tortoise shell rockford fosgate 1500bd. i'm going to be running it at 4ohms so the rms output should be 750....well i know these amps are extremely underrated, but yea so i've had to up my fuse to an ANL 150a inline coming from the battery on a 1/0 guage power wire. i also have a fused distribution block in the trunk because i'm running a punch 400-4 for my door speakers. I can't find find a 150a glass agu fuse, obviously because they dont make them. so i have a few questions. 1) do i need a new distribution block, or would it be cool if i put a 120a in the distribution block, i don't plan on putting the volume up too high, 2) do you think that i am going to kill my electrical system. I have a stock alt. and my car is a 98 vw golf. i don't even know the specs and don't know where to get the information. obviously i'm new, but i'm a car audio fanatic man, and really am interested in all this stuff, but am still wet behind the ears. Thanks for the feedback, just try not to be too harsh!!!! but i am planning on buying a new car, so i don't want to do any work or add anything to the system that i can't take with me. |
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Gold Member Username: KaerfplSpencerport, NY USA Post Number: 1118 Registered: Jun-06 | For your VW Golf, it appears that there are two different Alts that can come stock. There is a 90A and a 120A. Obviously, the difference deals with what type of engine you have. If you can find out what engine you have in your Golf, I could tell you which Alt you have. As far as the two amplifiers goes, the old school RF 1500bd only requires 4 Gauge wire. Im not sure if you have the old or new RF Punch 400-4, but the older RF Punch 400-4 requires 8 Gauge wire and the newer RF Punch 400-4 will accept 4 Gauge wire as well. With that said, there are a few ways we can wire these up. You can either purchase two Amplifier wiring kits (one per Amplifier) or use a Distribution Block like you stated above. If you are interested in going with the Distribution Block way, then I would suggest looking into a Block like the one below: Scosche e2 EWDB2: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15319_e2-EWDB2-by-Scosche.html This Distribution Block takes in 0/1 Gauge wire on one end, and puts out two 4 Gauge wire terminals on the other end. The type of fuses this Block uses is ANL which is great because you can easily find 80A plus sizes in ANL for your amplifiers. |
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New member Username: Dcollister440Post Number: 4 Registered: Jun-11 | so i have the 4 cylinder 2.0l...its the golf gl. the punch 400-4 is the newer model. I have a 0/1 gueage wire running from the battery to the distribution block, which is a rockford fosgate brand that accepts only agu glass fuses in it. from there i have 4 guage running to both amps. do I absolutely have to get a new distribution block, or if I put a 120a agu fuse into the current distribution block on the side going to the 1500bd amp will it work, or keep blowing the fuse. I already have order an inline fuse holder to attach to the 0/1 guage wire coming from the battery which i am going to place a 150a fuse into. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, South Carolina Post Number: 14311 Registered: Dec-03 | Ideally you should have an inline fuse on the 1/0 gauge wire that's rated at the max capatity of the wire it'self. Say, 325A for that line if it's OFC 1/0AWG. This fuse is solely to protect the car from a fire in case of a dead short if the wire's insulating jacket is compromised. After that, you should have a fused distribution block with fuses rated for each amplifier or device connected to that block output. say, 120A for a class D 1200 watt amplifier as an example. Also be aware of the minimum wire gauge requirements for wire, based on current draw, and length of run (adding positive and ground for the full circuit length) and how much your amplifier will draw, based on what class the amplifier is (D or A/B for example.) That's how I do it anyway, when I do a system properly. |
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Gold Member Username: KaerfplSpencerport, NY USA Post Number: 1119 Registered: Jun-06 | I am about 95% sure that the Alt you have in that GL version is the 90A. Typically the 120A Alt comes in the 2.8L Version, however it appears that they are interchangable, so it could be possible that someone before you may have installed a 120A Alt. Overall, with the combined Watts RMS of the RF 1500bd and the RF Punch 400-4, you are looking at at least 800 Watts RMS if you are planning on using 4 Ohm loads on both Amplifiers. I highly doubt combined they will be putting out more than 1000 Watts RMS. With this said, your 90A Alt should be able to keep up with the draw of these Amplifiers just fine. However, if it does turn out that the Headlights and/or Dash Interior Lights are dimming/flashing/fading while playing your system; at that point I would consider performing the Big 3 Upgrade. As far as fuses and wires go for your setup, I would personally require the following: RF Punch 400-4: 80A Fuse with 4 Gauge wire RF 1500bd: 150A Fuse with 4 Gauge wire Inline Fuse: 300A Fuse with your 0/1 Gauge wire Also to answer your question regarding the Distribution Block, I personally have had nothing but bad luck with AGU fuses in my past experiences. They would always typically blow after a few months of use. Once I switched to ANL Fuses, I haven't had one issue yet. The 300 ANL fuse in my Grand Prix has been performing great for 4 years now and no issues. Everyone is going to have their own opinion on what types of Fuses and setups to have, but I personally preffer ANL over AGU anyday. Consider what Glasswolf said. These fuses are in place to protect your vehicle and equipment. Better to spend a little more now than pay a lot more later in time I always say. |
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New member Username: Dcollister440Post Number: 7 Registered: Jun-11 | I definitley agree with you on the topic of protecting my system with a few extra dollars. It only takes a little bit of money to save a lot more. I'm probably going to buy that scosche distibution block that accepts anl fuses tonight, but a friend of mine was talking to me about a circuit breaker type block which will only need the flip of a switch, i'm going to research it a little more, but will more than likely stick with the anl fuse block you had suggested, seeing as it is probably much more inexpensive. thank you guys very much for all the answers. |
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Gold Member Username: KaerfplSpencerport, NY USA Post Number: 1122 Registered: Jun-06 | Don't bother with the circuit breaker. I've looked into those myself awhile back and they are not worth the money. The materials they are built from are very cheap, and don't last long. Just stick with your standard Inline fuse and Distribution Block. |
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New member Username: Dcollister440Post Number: 8 Registered: Jun-11 | so i have a few other questions regarding components and mid bass speakers. I currenty am running 4 infinity kappa 62.9i....6.5" 2-way speakers, one in each door, and a set 10.1t tweeters attached to the front dash. I was thinking of switching out the 2-ways in the front door for a 6.5 without the tweeter attached, just buy some components, and was wondering, am I going to have to buy like a crossover setup to wire them all together, and what would be a good mid bass driver, i was thinking of just purchasing another kappa, just a component set up. |
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Bronze Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 65 Registered: May-09 | All component sets come with their own custom designed crossovers so no need to worry about that, infinity has strong highs and weak midbass if you like that mix then go for their component set, if not there are many alternatives for different prices, also need to know what is that you dont like about your current setup. |
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New member Username: Dcollister440Post Number: 9 Registered: Jun-11 | i really just want more midbass, could you gimme a few recommendations for a 6.5" around $150-$200 range? I have a rockford punch 400-4 that pushes 74 rms per channel @4 ohms as stated on the birth sheet. so is there anything that would be good at this price range. |
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Bronze Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 66 Registered: May-09 | These two have strong highs and good overall sound quality as infinity plus solid clean midbass and within your price range: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15059_Polk-Audio-MM6501.html# http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33014_MB-Quart-PVL-216.html#tabs The polks are really well balanced and loud. |
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New member Username: Dcollister440Post Number: 10 Registered: Jun-11 | yea? i'm looking for a lot of mid bass man, real clean sounding, i have an extra set of tweeters for highs |
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Gold Member Username: KaerfplSpencerport, NY USA Post Number: 1124 Registered: Jun-06 | Rainbow CSX 265: http://cgi.ebay.com/CSX-265-RAINBOW-DREAM-NEW-6-5-2-WAY-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-/1105 73210027?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item19bead49ab Focal 165A1: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FOCAL-165A1-CAR-ACCESS-6-5-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-165 -A1-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f99c92a5QQitemZ300540531365QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5f Video Hertz HSK 165: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HERTZ-HI-ENERGY-HSK-165-6-5-2WAY-CAR-SPEAKER-USA- _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a1152dceaQQitemZ180679269610QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVide o |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, South Carolina Post Number: 14323 Registered: Dec-03 | you won't get great midbass from a 6.5" midrange speaker from any component set. If you want a good system with strong imaging, a good soundstage, and good midbass, consider this: 6.5" 2-way separates in kick pods up front 8" midbass drivers in back subs use a 4 channel amp for front/rear, or separate amplifiers for front and rear, along with a monoblock sub amp for the subwoofer. This, along with a HPF for the fronts, a bandpass filter for the midbass, and a LPF for the sub(s) is the ideal way to get your strong midbass for things like kick drums. You'll want the HPF for the front stage set to about 200Hz, 12dB slope midbass set to allow 250Hz -80Hz @ 18dB slope subs set to LPF @ 50Hz, 18dB slope keep the system as simple as possible, and you'll have less trouble. you don't need anything but midbass in the rear anyway, as "rear fill" speakers with any type of a tweeter will only draw your soundstage to the back of the car, and destroy your imaging as well, with a float effect caused by hearing the stereo separation diagonally across the car from front to rear. |
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Bronze Member Username: Dcollister440Post Number: 11 Registered: Jun-11 | glass i hear you but i dont have the room for 8" drivers bro, i got a small car man, the 6.5 aren't going to give a good enough kick? what about 6x9's? anything other than 6.5 i'm going to have to cut room for, and i dont have much experience with that, plus it'll cost an arm and a leg to put in. |
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Bronze Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 67 Registered: May-09 | High quality 6"x9" midbass drivers will "do" but most likely you will need to add a 3 way active crossover to implement what Glasswolf suggests since you need to bandpass the midbass drivers, no wonder the midbass drivers will push harder but you will need to tune up and if you have a big sub back there you will possibly need to install enclosures to the 6"x9" to avoid distortion also high sensitivity drivers are recommended since your amp might not push them hard enough. By installing oversized 6.5" separates you will not only improve substantially midbass over the infinitys but overall sound quality of your front stage. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, South Carolina Post Number: 14330 Registered: Dec-03 | 6x9 or even 6.5 inch drivers can work, but you really need to buy specific "midbass" drivers, and not try to make a midrange, or a subwoofer do the job. The response and motor structure of a midbass driver is very different from the others mentioned. "get the right tool for the job." |