Hey, i just got new speakers, and all of a sudden today, the one in my front passenger side door started making a crackling sound, it is only that one speaker, if i fade it to the back, i don't hear any static, and if i adjust the balance to the right side i dont hear any static. It is only coming out of the one speaker, my speakers are 40W RMS, and my headunit it 40X4, is there anyway that just that one speaker is blown? Thanks for any help.
check the wiring at the speaker. your terminals are probably grounding out to the door metal.
ob1murry
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I checked the wiring on the speaker and even put new ends on the wires to make sure they have a good connection, but i still get the static, it is not continuous though, it only happens when it has to hit a high frequency, is there a chance there is something wrong with the tweeter? Someone else told me i should clean the negative terminal on my battery, because it could be dirty causing my speaker to act funny. Is there a chance it is my headunit?
Sounds like you blew the tweeter. Your HU only puts out about 23W/channel (regardless of what they say). There's a decent chance you blew it with a clipped signal from playing it too loud.
See if you switch the speakers (left -> right) and it still happens.
Hey matt, i switched the front speakers and it still made the sound, only question i would have as to if i blew the tweeter is that it doesnt do it at all high frequencies, only when a guitar hits a high frequency(i was listening to coheed and cambria when i first noticed it, and that guys voice is pretty high pitched). If i did blow them i will probably buy the same speakers again because i liked them and i got them cheap(I got the kenwood 1679ie's for 60 bucks). So i would also get a new headunit to power them, if a 40W headunit only puts out 23W, how powerful would the headunit have to be to power the kenwoods at 40W RMS and 160W peak?
Hey matt, the only problem with using the amp is that i already have an amp, i have my speakers wired into the harness directly to my headunit, then i have a 100WX2 amp, which is bridged, on my RCA output to support my sub, i didnt hook the speakers up to the amp, because i would have either had no sub and 2 channels for my speakers, or all my speakers on 1 channel, and a channel for my sub, and i was afraid that 100W would blow the speakers. If i run two amps, would it cause too much strain on my alternator? Thanks for all the help.
The 5201 has speaker-level inputs, which is OK if you're going to mount this amp in the front of the car (like behind the glovebox or under a seat). So you won't have to touch any of your existing setup.
The "right" way to do this would be to get a line-level converter (~$20) and have another set of RCAs. BUT, I'm trying to be sensitive to your budget.
Anyway, it's always hard to say whether power would be a problem. It's certainly going to be more likely coming from the sub/amp than from fullrange speakers. This amp is only 15A whereas I'm sure your current amp is 30+.
The only way to know for sure is to see if the lights dim when you turn it up and get bass hits. I really don't expect it in this case.
Ok, actually my current amp is a 20, its only a 200W amp, its one of the vr3 ones from wal-mart(I know its junk) I know who worked at Best Buy and when he would install people new stereos, they would sell him their old setup cheap, so he sold me the amp, an MTX audio sub and the box for 100 bucks. I knew this amp was a joke when i got it and i had every intention of buying a new amp, can i get an amp that will power both the speakers, and the MTX(Thunder 3000)? Thanks Alot Man, your really helping me out here.
No, you probably won't find an amp to power both sets (at least those sets). A 4-channel would have to be 100x4 to keep the sub powered, which would mean you'd need 100W RMS speakers up front. Such speakers would cost a lot more than $60.
Well as long as im going to wind up buying new speakers, what are going to be some good speakers to get, and iv'e heard that having 3-way speakers in the back and 2 ways in the front would produce the best sound, is this true. I really dont want to wind up spending too god awful much, like more than 200-250 or so.
Well, I'm sorry to say that that's very bad advice. The purpose of having a good setup is to get as close as possible to recreating an open-air concert in your car.
To get the full "soundstage" effect means that nearly all the sound should be coming from a magical spot in front of the windshield. Doing this means that only realistic reverb and deep sounds should be from the rear; i.e., no full-range speakers and absolutely no tweeters.
Okay, so now that we've got the purpose down, let's look at what we have (I'm guessing a bit, let me know if I'm wrong):
I have a 1998 corolla, and i really don't want to have to cut tweeter holes anywhere. But Yes that setup is correct i have the mtx sub in the trunk with the VRA2.0, and the 1679ie's all the way around. My Headunit is jvc kd-s570. But i also believe that all the speakers are blown, because i changed the fade and balance so that i could hear each speaker individually and they all have static. There is just one thing that i don't understand. How could i have blown the speakers by clipping them, because if it clipped and i turned it up, even if i turned my headunit up all the way, it could only put out 40W max, and the speakers are rated at 2-40W RMS, so even if i turned the headunit up all the way, i would still be in the RMS range for my speakers. So how did it happen?
Clipping is an often misunderstood situation. It is not power alone that kills the driver, but the way the power is being sent.
"RMS power" capability ratings, like 40W, describe an average current going into a static load; i.e., 20V -> 4ohms. Reality is that speakers systems have neither an average signal nor a static load.
When the signal exceeds the capabilities of the amplifier -- either before or during its amplification -- the result is a "clipped" (square wave) output signal. This signal will actually double the standard RMS ratings. But it gets worse! Because the signal is "clipped", the speaker/driver/voice-coil is effectively not moving: lack of air flow causes the little tweeter coil to effectively become a heating element not producing sound. Especially in that speaker design, where you've got what's likely a 10- or 20-watt tweeter connected in series to a 150-watt capable midrange driver, getting a reactive load off the line.
Without even a passive crossover protecting that little tweet, it would only take a 5-10 minute session at excessively high volumes to cook.
There are many more threads here on the topic (including insightful analogies by many of us), so browse around or ask if you still want more info.
I'm looking into it. Do you know if the previous installer put in a decent set of adapter plates? You technically have a metric opening (165mm) and a shallow mount (2.125"). Did they cut the factory grilles?
All i can say about the previous installer, is that they installed the headunit, and some rear speakers that i replaced, and never touched the front speakers, because when i changed them, they were the factory speakers. By adapter plates, do you mean the speaker adapter so that the 6.5 fits in the front door? And what do you mean by "did they cut the factory grilles"?
Yes, modifications to fit the 6.5"; the opening is actually about 1/8" smaller than that. If you surface-mounted the speakers, then that would make sense.
About cutting the grilles, presumably there were some kind of grilles over the original opening, usually fabbed into the rest of the door panel. Were those cut, or are the speakers jammed behind them?
Okay, I'd say Focal 165CA for the front doors ($100), and either a Hifonics Samson 75x2 ($190) or a Soundstream Rubicon 2 300 ($120). All the prices are from eBay.
Don't worry about the rears until you get the front pleasing.
Thanks alot man, that really helps me out. But i'm pretty new to knowing what sounds good, so could you tell me what type of speaker si should eventually out in the back, since only deep sounds come from the back, should i just use a really cheap factory replacement, or a decent 2-way coaxial or what? Thanks alot.
When i do install my new system, is it best(Even when i get the rear speakers) to hook just the front speakers to the amp and let the rear speakers connected to the headunit, so that my front speakers getting better power and are not drowned out by the rear speakers?
If you carry rear-seat passengers, then you may want some sound for them. Otherwise, bright sounds coming from the back will negatively affect the soundstage up front.
Now, the notion of "rear fill" is an oft-debated one around here. Some say that there should be nothing but low bass (sub-120Hz) behind you. Personally, I like mono midbass (200-3000 Hz) for rear fill; to me its akin to the reverb and reflections you get in a concert hall.