So, I'm not as happy with the rl-p ported set up as I thought I was going to be. I had taken the sub out for the time being and just put it back in this evening. I wanted to try something different so I set it up to run at 4 ohm now instead of 1 ohm. I can honestly say I hear a difference in clarity running at 4 ohm. The bass already sounded clean but at 4 ohm it sounds much smoother. However, at 4 ohm, I'm only pushing it 400 rms at full tilt and I can tell the sub is wanting more. So, my goal now is to feed the sub between 750-1000 rms @ 4 ohm. Just need to decide which amp to go with for that and get one. As for the enclosure, I believe I should have went sealed instead of ported. I say this because I'm comparing how the 10w3 I just had hooked up sounded overall compared to the rl-p. The little 10 really surprised me in output. It sounds pretty good for its size. The main thing I notice is that it does well for rock/metal. Now the rl-p kills rap but sounds horrible at rock. This is due to the enclosure I'm guessing. Poor planning in my part. I feel the 10w3 just does so much better simply because it is sealed and peaks at a higher frequency which is more suited for rock type music. The rl-p enclosure is tuned low and doesn't peak at all for rock. In all honesty the 10w3 actually gives me more output while playing rock than the rl-p does on the same power. So I'm thinking what I need to do is go sealed with the rl-p and feed it more power at 4 ohm and I should be getting the sort of output I'm looking for. Because while the 10w3 sounds good, it just isn't enough for my taste.
It probably sounds cleaner @ 4 ohm cuz its lower power. I can't imagine being able to hear the difference between 4 and 1 ohm. It's your adjustments/tuning/install
There's no way you are hearing the difference in the impedance load between 1 and 4. Now I'm not questioning you hear a difference but I'm sure it's because of the different power. Now if you want, you are more than welcome to find an amp that does 700-1000 at 4 ohm but A, that will be costly and B, I think you'll be disappointed with it still because you will realize that it isn't the impedance load.
Honestly, if you aren't happy with it. Keep the power you have on it and try a sealed enclosure and see if that will help. Sound Splinter is known more for SQ and clean bass than anything else. I have a RL-s and my Mag and even go as far back and say my SSD were both louder than the RL-s but the SQ just is above and beyond both....although the Mag is my favorite sub.
Mine too. I haven't found a sub yet that delivers such a powerful balance of what most (ok some) of us are looking for. Accurate and deep bass with a unique punch. Sexy as hell to look at too lol.
Actually, clarity from 4ohm to 1ohm WILL be noticeable...
A 1ohm stable amp will produce 'better' power at 4ohm. Simply put, it is easier for an amp to produce higher voltage than higher amperage...from an SQ stand point.
Also, efficiency at 1ohm vs 4ohm will also come into play.
strange, i used to run a 12" rl-p and never had any problems with the sq or with it being able to keep up with rock beats. It was in 1.5 ported at 34hz on 800 watts.
to me, it seems thats the install is your problem.
canaan, i know that would be true for an amp, say like an aq 3500 that will do 750 at 4 ohms. But, what about an amp that is rated for the same power at 1-4, like an alpine pdx 1000?
What coil & size RL-P? You might as well model it or pick a better one that suits your response preference.
QTC is response. Useable is .4 to 1.2. .5 would be the tightest bass but it would probably require a larger than normal NET space. I'm pretty sure they recommend 5 cubes sealed for the 15, 3 for the 12. You can google a bunch of subs ending with "QTC FC F3" because most likely I've modelled them for others in another forum or this one. FC is the frequency it starts to roll off @ (depending on the QTC) -12dB/octave (this is QTC .707 AKA flattest response). .5 might be like -8dB/octave. The F3 is when the frequency response will be at -3dB. Go up or below QTC .707 and the highs & lows response will switch sides, lower than .707 QTC gives up some of the high's for an extended lower frequency response and vice versa (more highs, less lows for over QTC .707), and because the high's aren't as loud they transition better.
My favourite sealed response is from the Eclipse SW8210, 1.8 cubes = QTC .5, FC 27 Hz, F3 42 Hz. 750W RMS, 86.5 dB sensitivity, can take 1500W "if it's clean power" (manual). It was only $160 on Sonicelectronics but they all sold and are on other sites for $360.
TC sounds is good too. If you want tight bass with a good low end extension, like flat down to 20 Hz than you won't beat a LMS in a big sealed box. It might have worse 60-100 Hz though. They can be tight, sound good and have great extension for rap. The SW8210 (non-LMS w/similiar specs), SW8010 (non-LMS w/similiar specs), SW8200 (discontinued LMS), SW8000 (discontinued LMS) are all good picks if you can find them used. I was using 3 SW8200 (12") in 3.75 sealed on a 1500W amp, in a sunfire trunk and they destroyed 20-30 Hz while being really tight, all with a "low" 82 dB 1/w sensitivity rating.
Maybe even a Digital Designs ported, people say those are tight.
Try it out in a sealed box. It wont cost you much. I put my Q in a sealed box just to try it out and i really liked it. I thought it just sounded better all around and still got loud. Worth a shot i think.....
M.S is very stupid and well he does not really know what he says he only reads wikipedia.. and grab info from other forums..
anyways...
RESISTANCE....
yeah its a pretty common problem in car audio..
lets say you have an amp that does 400rms at 4 ohms with a thd (total harmonic distortion ) of lets say 1%
everytime your impedance go lower your resistance raise.. is the same effect you get when doubling subwoofers.. if you have a single and get another you double your spl upto 3+db's but if you a third you wont get another 3db;s like before isntead you need the double of the dual set up in this case you'll need 4 subs.. and when having 4 subs u want another 3 dbs you need 8 subs...
yep resistance is a problem..
so thats the same with distortion.. go lower and your THD raises.. some amps are well build to keep this at minimun but they still raises..
cmon korean(xenon) made amps have total THD of around 1% of less at 4 ohms but going to 1 ohm it raises at up to 10%THD and its on the specs sheets..
in most set up it wont matter since you actually gonna run a spl set up and your set up is not FULLY sound quality so you wont see the diference.. but when u have a Sound quality system you see the diference right away..
keep in mind some amps are more effiecient to other amps with same wattage.. that means some amps may sound louder while pushing the same wattage.. thats why manufacturer include on their specs signal to noise ration and efficiency..
anyways i recomend you to find a phoenix gold xenon 1200.1 is pretty old but is a true sound quality amp that could push 1200 watts rms from 4 ohms to 1 ohm and without losing THD
its like a jl audio 1000/1 sucha great amp but quality cost.. im not saying is overpriced.. since if you want the best u gotta pay.. just like if you were rich ur gonna go versace,louis viotton,gucci instead of the clothes youll find walmart or nike's
i suggest you find a good sound quality amp.. stay away from korean made (xenon amps) some of my suggestions
rockford fosgate tb series ( alil power hungry) phoenix gold amps us amps these are not regulated.. but try to find a regulated like the xenon amp that puts same power from 4 to 1 ohm whitout losing thd but if you want good sound quality and you cant find a xenon 1200.1 try to get a kicker sx1200.1 is such a great sound quality amp.. and no other xenon amp can match (yep including sundows) because that amp has a dsp built in.. is a digital sound processor.. wich fixes.. regulates your bass for best quality without losing performance..
you can find that particular amp for not too much.. i think alil less than a sundown amp while getting same power but much more sound quality and features..
the sound splinter rl-p is really a great sub.. try a big enclousure and tuning frequency around 34hz to 30hz i will keep it low.. i dont know if they perform good at sealed.. i never tested them on sealed.. only ported.. they need a big enclousure tho...
make sure you got the power to feed that amp.. it takes power to make power.. and make sure your alternator is producing clean power.. since they make ac current and convert it to dc they sometimes have low quality rectifiers and parts that some small ac gets into the power and is not noticable but on audio well thats what we call noise.. and sometimes is the problem with alt noise
anyways try and tweak.. check your cross overs.. your low pass filters.. make sure your bass boost is off or very low since switching from 4 ohms to 1 ohm creates more power.. the bass boost or any sound enhancers starts to show up..
I like how someone with a 2yr old's english thinks that my posts are copied from somewhere else. Go back to mexico dumbshit. I kinda wish I had the time to explain all the fail in that post, even though no one cares.
What good does a sealed box do for lowlows like screwed and chopped 20 hz or so.? Is there an advantage over a ported box tuned low? Will it do better with rock music??
That's the only way to explain your PMS-like symptoms.
MS is a douchee just don't talk to him and he will disappear.
NOW LETS STAY ON TRACK ON THE MEANINGFUL THREADS, PLEASE!!!
I could have sworn s&c would go down to 20, or even 15 hz. I know that it sometimes does cuz, well, I just do. But anyways, back to my question................................would my subs sound good or better in a sealed enclosure with the lowlows??
the roll off is 12 db per octave with a sealed box below resonance of the box with a given subwoofer so the potential is there to gain but it would be hard to beat a low tuned ported box because of the 3 db gain you get...by the way roll off for a ported box is 24 db per octave below tuning
how can i tell you?? i dont even know what brand are they..
yes im g. i rob
it all depends on the driver..since we dont know your driver ill give you alil homework..
find your drivers specs.. i dont know maybe on the internet??
you need to find the ebp of your sub or the efficiency bandwidth product.. is a number which shows the trade-off between efficiency and bandwidth of a driver
It is useful in determining if a driver is suited for a sealed or vented box and is also used to determine suitability for horn loading.
EBP = fs / Qes
As a general rule:
EBP < 50 - use only for a sealed box EBP 50 - 100 - can be used in either EBP > 100 - vented box only
there you go find the fs of your specs and the ques.. divide them.. that theres your guide..
wait im sorry hopefully ms will show up and give you greater knowledge.. and maybe will be related to his sh1tty charger..
i dont listen to chopped and screwed music but i like dj screw.. paull wall, wel texas chopped music..
on my listenings.. they seem to be around low 40s to the upper 30s in terms of frequencies..
i suggest ported if u want loud to make the lows alot louder since is hiphop i dont think it has some good quality bass.. just hard pounding bass.. if you go sealed it will sound nice to the ear.. warm but for gangsta style people they wont probably notice sound quality just loudness.. even if it sounds like sh1t
also with ported it will have the windy effect..
go with ported if your listening to hiphop.. sealed will be kinda worthless
would a sealed do better playing rock music? Does the rolloff pertain to octaves higher than that of resonant/tuning frequency as well, or only for lower octaves?
^ No, that's personal preference, mostly transient response & the raw sound of a driver are the determining factors. There is only one roll off with a flat response (QTC .707), but if it's not flat than obviously there's going to be two roll offs, which are measured with FC & F3. The F3 will be either below or above the FC, depending on the QTC.
Rock-kicks don't go as low as rap, so using a sealed box would only be good for a better transient response, but it's not like you can't get a ported box to be just as tight. If you're not listening to a constant bass line than more punch should come from a ported box just because it has the potential to be louder.
The roll off is the frequency at which it starts to drop off at (sealed box) -12dB per octave (depending on the QTC), so it's only for the lower octaves. If the QTC is lower than .707 than the F3 will be higher than the FC. High QTC (above .707) will have an F3 below the FC.
Sealed is only good for the opposite of what ported gives - ported is a specified "compromise".