Hey guys I'm new to this site but not entirely new to car audio stuff, but I'm no expert, that's for sure. I've been looking around to find a site with nice people who know what they're talking about... I picked here! I'm 15, and my brother is 18, and he's had different systems throughout his driving career. He is currently running 2 Kicker 15'' CVX's in an 8 cu. ft. box and it whams pretty hard. I will be getting a truck of some sort when my 16th bday comes around. Not entirely sure what kind yet, just depends on the deal I can find. It will be AT LEAST an extended cab and AS BIG OR BIGGER than a Silverado 1500. (No Tacos, no S10s, etc...) I'd like to be able to beat HARD without taking up a shitload of space, hence my interest in only one sub.
Anyways, that's my little story. I'm thinkin of goin with an 18'' FI BTL in like a 5 or 6 cu. ft. box, or a DD 9500. I'm not entirely sure which one to go with. I will be making a custom box with my uncle and he knows what he's doing, but I figured I'd get the opinions of some of the guys on here as well. Do you think I could take out the center console of a truck with bucket seats and form a box to fit between the two seats? I'd rather not waste riding space...
Also, what's the difference between dual 1 and 2 ohms? I'm thinkin I'll go with 1 ohm. What's the difference?
Oh also, what would be a good amp to pair up with one of them? I was thinking a Hifonics Brutus, or Audioque, Sundown... Something along those lines.
As you've probably realized by now, I want to make people's hearts skip beats from hundreds of feet away. I want a system that sounds amazing and slams.
just throwing this out there.. got a memphis belle mch1300 for sale
1100rms @ 1 @ 1ohm 75 x 4 @ 4 ohm
would be perfect for a whole setup.. would powera fi q or fi bl well.. but looks like your seeking more power
anyways.. if interested 340 shipped - http://carstereoforum.net/showthread.php?t=5998
and the only diff in ohms is the resistance... easier to find more power at a lower ohm for less cost.. just be sure the total wiring config is a usable ohm load
If you plan to run one sub and want to run at 1 ohm get a dual 2 ohm woofer. Good choices in the brands. If you want low go with the Fi Q, if you want loud do a BTL. How much power do you plan to run? Any plans for a front stage and head unit? Go with the audioque amps for your best deal. Sundown if you don't mind the extra money.
Front stage head unit? I have no idea what that is... You think the Q would be better for me? I'm a little pushed for space... Maybe it would. But I do want it to be loud. Will it still hit hard?
Front stage will be a set of components. You'd need a 2 channel amp to push a good set to keep up with the amount of bass you're looking for. Head unit is your cd player. If you want more low end bass (deeper bass is heard farther away) the Q will be a great choice. If you want more loudness overall (SPL) the BL or BTL Fi offers may be a better choice. The Q and BL would both work well on 1k rms. The BTL depending on options can handle quite a bit more of power.
so yoru a beginer??? do you really know what are getting in to???? check your state laws man i had to pay around 5k of fines for disturbing the peace while i was driving with my system blasting..
also to get that keep in mind you cant just bang alot in a silverado except you take the back seat off and put a big box on it then u can have some banging.. but if u dont intent to take out the backseat well you need some good woofers that bang on small spaces and bl or btls wont perform good under 1 cb ft of space
so i think because you have a silverado will be too problematic ill suggest going a simpler and more efficient way...
your a beginer start from the bottom dont try to put the first greatest sound system on your first try...
fudge that too much money haha if your thinking of getting a nice system you know its going to get costly with electricalupgrades
this guy has 1000 rms to the subs and look
the diference from 1 ohm to 2 ohms is that 1 ohm is way more inefficient than 2 ohms for example if an amp is wired at 1 ohm it will take more current as the same amp in a 2 ohm load..
if you dont plan on competing i suggest get a nicer set up that you can bang everyday and wont have problems with it.
So if I ran one 15'' Fi Q in around a 3.5 cubic foot box, what electrical upgrades are necessary, and also what amp would you recommend? Now I'm willing to take up as much space as I need, I'd just rather not. If I really need to have a 10 cubic foot box, I'll make one and put it in the back seat.
1k watts? I think I'd rather go with a 2.5k amp and do less electrical.
Say i was to get 1 Fi BTL 15'' and a 2500 watt amp, what else electrical would I need BESIDES 0 gauge from battery to amp (with fuse in the engine compartment) and rca cables?
You're going to need a high output alt to support a 2.5k system. The battery is a place where power is stored, but the power is generated from the alt. Without the correct size alt you're not going to have the power to run 2.5k rms.
to run a 2500rms+ setup you'll need more than a 1k budget
if you are capable of doing everything yourself and buy used it is possible.. but to get a headunit worth a damn with that budget and still run that power. i don't see it happening
you are probably looking closer to 2k-2.5k for this kind of set up.
got my sub amp used was still $550 wiring was ~$150, hu was ~$300 back in the day, sub was $330, box was like $260, mid and high's amp was $160, speakers for the front where 350$, thats 2100 not including sound deading and i still need a HO alt so ~ another $500.
I agree,your gonna need more than a $1000. Why not just start with something simple like a 15'' Q aq1200d? Then...later down the road if your not satisfied you can upgrade.
Why would I start out with something that will leave me wanting more? I'm asking you guys this: If I get a fully loaded Fi BTL 15, and like a 2500 watt amp, what other modifications besides an alternator would be necessary?
Stock ground from your chassis to engine block, chassis to battery and the wire coming from your alt to the positive post on the battery. Change out the stock wiring and upgrade it to 1/0 gauge. Helps to create less resistance as possible and will help to maintain voltage.
You can leave the stock wiring if you choose but the power will choose the path of least resistance. My battery is dual terminal so I left the stock battery ground already there and put the 1/0 gauge on the side post.
You do not need a 250amp alt, big 3 and TWO batts to run 2500rms...yes if you want to run full tilt for long periods of time and keep perfect voltage....right now i have an AQ2200 and a Kicker ZX650.4 and I'm getting by on stock alt, big 3 isnt done just yet, and an XS Power 3400. I hang in the mid to high 13 V for close to 10 mins full tilt before it starts to drop. Don't get me wrong I want/need H/0 alt to get full potential but just sayin....not need right away.