hi guys wondering what some opinions would be to run 3000 to 3500 watts rms. probably around 3000 for bass class d, maybe a little more, and a good 300 to 400 rms for speakers, class a/b amp. what would you recommend? i have a good idea of what i want to do, and i think im thinking a little too overboard, so i want some opinions of what other people would say. not going to say what im thinking yet. if it was your car and you want to make sure you are actually getting the power you have what would you do?
4 runs (2pos, 2neg) of 1/0 OFC wire, 350 amp alt or two 200-250's 2 or 4 good batts total, lots of fuses, some nice terminals from a guy called toolmaker, case of beer and a cooler full of ice and maybe a buddy.
actually im thinking about 4 epics or 3 lms-r's thilo has me convinced that 3 of those lms-r will be my best choice, and i want extremely clean sounding bass.
deathoob dont you think that is a little too much? lol 2 alts, 2 or 4 batts and 4 runs of wire. that will be at least 1,000 probably more around 1500 just in electrical. thats more than the cost of subs box and amp lol i was thinking maybe a big alt like 300 or so amps and a decent battery or a decent size alt like 200 amps or so and a big battery like a kinetik hc 3800 and just doing 1 run of wire
How do you plan on running things? Daily, comps? I like the recommendations, but they may be overkill. I ran dual alts and 3 3100s with 6 runs of 0 and dropped to 13.8 or so with 4500 watts.
1 run of 0 is good for 3 to 350 amps. You'll be cutting it close doing just one run.
I would recommend 2 group 31s in back. One really good alternator would probably do it, though two factory alts would normally have more idle output and last longer.
Sorry man, but it takes power to make it and you should spend the grand to protect your equipment and make it function to its potential.
u dont need 4 runs, deathnoob doesnt know what the hell hes talking about. for 3k rms wat u need is, 1 run of 0 awg maybe 2 at most, 1 for each terminal, group 31 yellowtop in the back and stock in the front, upgraded alternator is optional, its not a must. oh ya and dont forget the big 3.
if you use CCA wire rated for 250amps witch most is you would need 4 runs for 350 amps of current, 2 if for don't run wire for the ground.
is it a daily driver or for comps? if you are just burping get batts, daily driver alt + 1 or 2 big batts. also if you are competing in meca read the rules and go from there. ect ect.
IMHO I wouldn't run ground from the front to the back the body is plenty and will actually out do the runs of 1/0 from terminal to terminal. So two runs of 1/0 is sufficient running all ++ it is only 3 k lol
Polo, with 4k and 2 runs of + I added 2 runs of 1/0 ground. My drop from front to back went up almost .5v. To me it was worth it. Most people just scratch off a ground to the sheet metal and pop a self tapping screw in- which just isn't enough imo.
Grounds for amplifiers or anything that high current should not be made to the body. On a vehicle with a frame grounds should be to the frame, thats good heavy metal and will work fine... but on a unibody car running ground wires is often the best way to go for big amplifiers.
i would run 3 12" lms-r subs, and something like a sundown 3000d or cresendo 3000d. not sure. and its just for daily driving, no comps at all. just beat down the city with bass everyday.
Not disgreeing with anyone but as long as the body is properly grounded IE two runs 1/0 + to the back you also should have the same neg running to the body most people make that mistake of runnning a single neg in their big 3 lol. A cars floor pan can handle a lot more amperage then long runs of wire not to mention the ground should be kept as short as possible. If you use large bolts not the self tapping junk go down to metal and stay away from welded frame parts you should be fine .
The problem with grounding to a floor pan or part of the body is that the body sits on rubber mounts (on a frame car) and is grounded to the frame usually with a small ground strap... not real heavy gauge. So then the current to the amplifier is going through that. Thats why I tell ppl to make the ground to the frame.
Where talking about unibody here really no frame but in older cars then sure run to the frame it would be the heaviest chunk of metal there. As far as ground straps that should all have been replaced. You need at least one 1/0 from the body (chassis etc) to the engine block and must be flexible or use several braded types. You also need at least one 1/0 from the + to the alt. Now from the Neg post you need at least two 1/0 ga, what ever runs you are running you should IMHO running the same to the body. Now you might get away with only one because the shorter the run the more amperage it can handle BUT it does provide a larger pathway and because electricity flows from neg to pos (yes it does) to me it should be matched. One other thing newer unibody cars are usually tack welded together so going to a front chassis member may not be a great idea this is why I say use the pan because unibody frames are welded to it which is a majority of its metal mass.....