1) I need to know if I will be needing an alternator upgrade given the following potential setup: - Current alternator = 100 amps (I assume this is a max?... not sure of RMS, if that is even how alternators are classified) in a Buick Century - Amp 1 to speakers = RMS Power @ 240 watts - Amp 2 to subs = RMS Power @ 720 watts - Kenwwod deck = (says RMS 22x4 and also says max current consumption 10A, but I don't know if this is that high since I won't be powering any speakers with it?) - Everything else (aftermarket car alarm + factory setting power usage)
Will my current alt work or do I probably need to upgrade?
2) Given those 2 amps and no future system upgrades planned, will 4 guage power/ground wire from battery be sufficient or should I go bigger? 2 guage? 0 guage?
3) Which size/kind of speaker wire should I run from my speaker amp to the speakers?
4) I have a 1-farad cap laying around... will it make any difference in the SQ of my system or should I just leave it out? From what I've read it sounds like they are kind of pointless...
I think this will be a very good start. I know i'm asking you to read but trust me its the best way. Within this link you will see an article that has to do with charging systems and alternators. Once you take a Quick look through this come back with any questions you still have.
Thanks Joe; that link has everything I've been Googling for the past few days! I will attempt to answer my own questions for verification:
1) Use stock alternator first, upgrade if necessary
2) 2 guage is sufficient
3) 18 guage for speakers, 12-14 subwoofers
4) Sell power cap on eBay
It was also interesdting to read the stuff about amplifier settings, which would surely have been my next post once I installed everything. I will also be sure to rewire my "Big 3" with the 2 guage. Thanks again
I think you may find 2 gauge to be i little harder to come by. I would recommend 0 gauge with a distribution block. 0 would also be great for your big 3.
Ok doing the 0 guage. I have one more question for ya
On that page for the Big 3 it says "1/0 ring terminals to terminate the ends of the wire, and battery terminals and adapters to connect the large gauge wire to your car battery".
So I'm thinking everything I need for Big 3: "x" ft 0g power wire (will figure out later) "x" ft 0g ground wire (will figure out later) 3 0g black ring terminals (1 for engine block, 2 for chassis) 1 0g red ring terminal (for alternator) 1 positive battery terminal 1 negative battery terminal 1 fuse holder w/ 300amp fuse
Is this correct so far? Will I need anything else (some split loom for all of these wires, more ring terminals, etc.)?
you can use 0 ga for the big 3 but its really not necessary. but if you have the wire on hand go for it, also what amps are you using? alot of people buy amps like a jensen or pyle and think those rms ratings they give are real world when thats not the case at all. But even if you do have quality amps there should be no need at all to upgrade your alt. even if your lights are dimming with your current system, i wouldnt upgrade. theres just no need to spend hundreds more on an alt when your running such a low powered system.
I'm creating my own amp install kit in pieces from KnuKonceptz so I figured I'd just order the stuff for my Big 3 at the same time. Their 0 guage for their KLMX brand is relatively inexpensive only 1.75/foot.
The larger amp for my subs is a PowerAcoustik OV2-1600 (I know I know) and the smaller one for my speakers is a JBL GT5-A604. I do know that the PA alone on my old Honda Accord would dim the lights considerably.
I also did the calculations on Crutchfield to kind of guesstimate if I'd need a new alternator and ironically enough, both the numbers for amps I'd be using and extra amps available came out to be 42 if I remember correctly. But again, I'm not going to worry about this at this point unless I install this stuff and really feel it is necessary to upgrade.
i saw some cheap brand new 160 amp alternators on ebay. only 100 dollars! im thinking about getting one... very tempting. sounds a lot better then paying 300 for a 200 amp alt.
You may not need a 300 amp fuse for your wire. 200 amp may be big enough. If you go too large it won't trip if needed to and its almost like running a solid wire.
A $100 alternator is not gonna do 160 amps, and if it does, it's just a re-wind of stock alt coils. Meaning idle output will be crap.
As for the fuse, 300 amp is the correct maximum size for 0 gauge wire. Fuse size is determined by wire gauge and nothing else. The function of that fuse is to prevent a fire if the power wire shorts, it does not protect the amplifier.
Also I think 4 gauge wire would work for that install but it surely doesn't hurt to go bigger.
Just upgrade your battery to a a 70 - 100 ah like an optima. Your alternator will do the job easily. If it doesn't keep up during short bass bursts during music & your voltage drops, current will be momentarily drawn from the battery. Your alt will then charge the battery easily. You are not doing SPL burps so don't worry. Just do the big 3 as well as suggested above & you'll be fine. More than adequate.