Can 450 watts push a 12" Punch P2?

 

New member
Username: Mactasticlove

Post Number: 3
Registered: May-10
i have a 450 watt amp; can that push my rockford fosgate 12" Punch P2? or do i need to get a better amp to get the sound i want?
 

Silver Member
Username: Skdooley

Roanoke, VA Usa

Post Number: 696
Registered: Oct-09
What kind of sound are you looking for? What are your goals? A p2 is only going to sound so good. Its an in between sub, not an SQ sub and not an SPL sub either. Its only going to have a low amount of power handling capability so it will only get so loud. The best way to get the most out of it is going to be from a well built enclosure and good, clean power.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

2 hifonics 2607s, 2dcSounds12xls SPL\idmax12SQ

Post Number: 14152
Registered: Jun-04
your amp will work but you will need to turn the gain on the amp down some since the sub is only rated for 300 rms thats assuming you have a true 450 watt rms amp........what amp do you have so we can check
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 13611
Registered: Dec-03
not really true, sean.
explained here:
http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/speakerpwr.html

http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/whatisgain.html

this also depends on his sub. if the amp is 450 watts @ 2 ohms or @ 4 ohms etc.. and is his P2 the 4 ohm DVC model? As you noted, lack of information.
In any event, yes the amp will work.
 

New member
Username: Mactasticlove

Post Number: 4
Registered: May-10
yeah i got the amp pushing it now. it sounds ok. im thinking about buying a better amp. Any suggestions on what amp or how many watts? The sub is in the trunk of my car. In a ported box.

I dont want to sound like and idiot but im new to all of this. im figuring out and finding out one step at a time. So try not to get into straight nerd talk (so to speak) that would be over my head.

thanks for the help.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

2 hifonics 2607s, 2dcSounds12xls SPL\idmax12SQ

Post Number: 14211
Registered: Jun-04
oh ok thanks for following up glasswolf
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 13709
Registered: Dec-03
Honestly?
get better subs instead.
the RF P2 isn't a great sub, really.

better subs typically yield a more vast improvement over increasing power, unless you're going to double or triple the power at a minimum.
 

New member
Username: Mactasticlove

Post Number: 6
Registered: May-10
damn. aight well ill look into it. thanks
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 13721
Registered: Dec-03
here's the problem:
double the power is only +3dB in output.
ten times the power is double the audible volume
begin to see hte problem with trying to get more output from a bigger amp?


It's easier to improve output and SQ both, by going to a better, more sensitive sub, and a better enclosure design., or by improving the vehicle efficiency with sound deadening materials.
 

Silver Member
Username: Rosrock

Michigan

Post Number: 301
Registered: Mar-09
what do u mean by "sensitive". And also whats fs mean.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 13767
Registered: Dec-03
Speaker Sensitivity and Efficiency.

Speaker sensitivity is a specification provided by all manufacturers of high-quality speakers. The sensitivity rating has no relation to sound quality, as some of the very best speakers have low ratings. Sensitivity ratings simply tell you how much sound a speaker will produce for a given power input.

Sensitivity ratings are given in decibels per watt at one meter, or db/Wm. So, with an input of one watt (usually white noise), a speaker with a sensitivity of 90 db/Wm will produce 90 decibels of sound at a distance of one meter. A sensitivity of 90 is considered average, with ratings of 87 and below considered low sensitivity and above 93 considered high sensitivity. To increase the volume by 3 db, you must double the power. So, using the example above, to make 93 db you would need two watts, and to make 96 decibels, four watts.

Most of the time your system is cruising along producing only a few watts. You need extra power for loud bass passages, crescendos in classical music, and other highly dynamic passages. Your speakers may need more than 10 times the average power to re-create these dynamic passages accurately, and if you are playing loudly to begin with, you may need an awful lot of power if you have speakers with a low sensitivity rating.

So, when you are buying an amplifier, consider your speakers, your vehicle size and how loudly you want to play. If you have sensitive speakers, you probably will not need as much power -- even 20 clean watts would probably be enough. If your speakers are only moderately sensitive, your vehicle is large or exceptionally noisy at highway speeds and you want to play loudly, you will need more power in order to faithfully reproduce dynamic passages.

"Sensitivity," which is expressed in dB, should not be confused with "efficiency" that is expressed as a percentage of power out relative to power in. Efficiency data for loudspeakers suffers from many problems such as failure to consider variations in frequency response.

Speaker efficiency is the ability of the speaker to do work or use power. The more efficient the speaker; the less power is required for the speaker to produce sound. Voice coil design, type and size of the magnets, speaker cone design and material, speaker size, etc. all play a critical role in determining speaker efficiency. However, speaker size is a good general method for guessing efficiency.

Typical speaker efficiency (for physicists) is about 5%. Meaning that for 100% power input, you get about 5% acoustical work back.

Keep in mind that when considering subwoofers, or any speaker that will get more than ~100 watts RMS of power, these measurements are affected by other factors that make this specification less than useful when choosing between speakers.

Fs
Driver free air resonance, in Hz. This is the point at which driver impedance is maximum.

Fs -
Resonant frequency. This is the frequency at which the subwoofer most easily resonates - and in free air, has the highest impedance (actual resistance with a subwoofer varies both with frequency and enclosure - it's not just "4 ohms" - it may rise up over 40 ohms in fact, at points!) at that frequency.
What it's useful for looking at is in judging how low a subwoofer can play.
A low Fs means the subwoofer will be able to play lower...
...but means it won't be as efficient in the higher frequencies either. So maybe not always a good thing - or rather, something you need to compromise with realistically, to target your own personal tastes... loud? Or low? Or a little of both?
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