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Bronze Member Username: C0hplPost Number: 12 Registered: Aug-09 | Hey guys I have a JL Audio 13.5" W7 Kicker zx1500.1 stock head unit - (line out converter) 4 gauge power wire 6 gauge ground wire The last amp i had broke/fried within 2 hours of being in my car, i have a BLACK 2009 honda civic coupe... i live in florida... it gets VERY HOT, VERY FAST.. im afraid im going to melt my new kicker 1500.1 if i play my W7. Before i even turn on my car / amp, i check to see how hot the amp is just from sitting in my car and it nearly burns my hand its so hot. so if i start to pound my W7 and the kicker is already hot before hand, im afraid the kicker is gonna melt.. What can i do? I am going to buy one of those reflector mirror things for the front wind shield of my car, but the amp is still going to get hot.. i need to cool down the amp.. but its all the way in my trunk.. i put down my windows / put the A/C on and it cools down my car, but its not isolated to the amp, so it doesnt cool it down a lot.. please can you guys help me? Also, is a 2008 kicker 1500.1 an okay amp for my 13.5 W7? My friend said i cant go past 1/4 gain or it will blow my W7.. so im just keeping it low for now. Also, on the amp, it had a knob for "Cross over" in Hertz. from 50-200 i think.. idk what it does.. so what should i set it at? thank you so much guys - One love |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfLexington, SC USA Post Number: 13471 Registered: Dec-03 | OK first of all, just to note, amplifiers are designed to operate in harsh conditions in a car, and to run hot. My Orions run so hot during typical operation that you can't touch them without getting first degree burns on contact. It's normal. That said, look at using one of these on each end of the amplifier(s) in a push-pull setup to draw air across the amp(s). These are what I use as well, triggered by a relay from the remote trigger so they turn on and off with the amps. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5283_PAC+CF-1.html Now something to note. typically an amplifier doesn't "fry" from heat alone. What usually kills an amplifier if it's a decently built amp (Kicker makes good amps) is clipping. The amp probably ahd the gain set too high, and/or was starved for current due to an inadequate electrical system. Your wiring is too small to start with. 4AWG and 6AWG won't cut it for an amp that draws 150A of current at full output. You need to swap that out to 2AWG or 1/0AWG for BOTH power and ground. (it's all one circuit. Use the same gauge wire throughout.) Next, do the "big 3" upgrade. (if you need a link let me know) After that, look at a high output alternator. Hondas are notorious for using small OEM alternators, and you're really going far, far beyond what a stock alternator can handle with that amplifier. That's what killed your amp, and will likely kill that Orion sub as well if the amp continues to clip, if the coils aren't already damaged and being partly to blame for the diminished output. In fact, here, read the links under the "electrical" section, please. They will help you a lot. http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/index.html |
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Silver Member Username: SkdooleyRoanoke, VA Usa Post Number: 681 Registered: Oct-09 | You know whats making your amp hot? The 13 w7 is a dual 1.5 ohm, so more than likely your running it at a 0.75 ohm load. The only other way you could be running it would be at a 3 ohm load which wouldn't be showing that sub enough power on your current amp. So you'll have to either find an amp that will push the sub at 3 ohms, at the rms you're looking for, or one that won't get so hot at a 0.75 ohm load. Your friend could be right about that amp hurting the 13 w7 as well. If you're pulling the amp below its stable ohm load, on an improperly set gain, seeing 1500+ rms of power, that isn't a good thing. |
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Bronze Member Username: C0hplPost Number: 24 Registered: Aug-09 | No i just checked and its @ 3 OHM... How do i get power to the fans in the trunk of my car? And what settings should i set my amp to? ( Gain and crossever, also hi or low input? I have a line out converter..) |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfLexington, SC USA Post Number: 13483 Registered: Dec-03 | Low input set gain using a DMM and calculator as per link. http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/dmmgain.html set LPF to 50Hz set phase to zero or normal set Q or slope to 18 or 24dB (if available) turn off any bass boost function How did you get power to your amplifier in the trunk? The fan runs on 12VDC. You use a relay from the main 12VDC (+) line coming from the battery, and trigger the relay with whatever you use to turn the amplifier on with the head unit power. Then you can run multiple fans using the bosch relay, and trigger multiple amplifiers if need be without harm to the low current 12 volt trigger lead. |
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Bronze Member Username: C0hplPost Number: 25 Registered: Aug-09 | I dont have a DMM.. what can i do please? Also, i dont understand that 12VDC thing.. can i just split into my remote wire before my amp and power the fan with that wire? Let me know, thanks brudha |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfLexington, SC USA Post Number: 13488 Registered: Dec-03 | buy a digital multimeter (DMM) you don't want to run directly from the remote trigger line. you'll fry it. close this thread and just stick to the one in Subs. I'm tired of the back and forth. thanks |
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Bronze Member Username: C0hplPost Number: 28 Registered: Aug-09 | kk, talk to you over there.. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfLexington, SC USA Post Number: 13492 Registered: Dec-03 | thank you! |