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New member Username: StickeericePost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-10 | im pretty new to this car audio thing, so i need some help. I just bought a 2001 Civic LX coupe and the back speakers are blown, but I just want to replace the whole sound system (head unit, back and front speakers, add an amp). But what kinda set up would be optimal for my car? Would i put the subs in for the back speakers? or should i buy a box for it? should i cut wholes in my doors for tweeters or should i just use where the factory put them? could i add a center speaker? I want to prevent any rattling, so would i avoid putting woofers in my trunk? I'm planning to spend around 500-1000. but cheaper is always better. just take the question as "if it was your car, what would you do?" Thanks guys for any help. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12898 Registered: Dec-03 | my suggestion? get a decent CD player for the dash with 3 sets of pre-outs (F/R/S RCA lines) get a decent set of separates for the front stage (Focal, DLS, or similar.) Get a decent little 45-65W RMS x 2 channel @ 4 ohm full range amp to drive the separates Get a decent class D mono amp for the subs (around 500-800 watts RMS @ 2 ohms) get a single sub, like an Fi Q or SSD series and put it in a ported box. Sub size is up to you and what space you can spare for it. 10" 12" or 15" would be my recommendation. The larger, the better. All this, and an amp wiring kit will do the job. If you really want it to be nice, get a set of Qlogic Qform kick pods for the separates for good imaging and a stelthy look. Forget rear speakers. You don't need them, and they just trash the imaging of the front stage. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12899 Registered: Dec-03 | PS, if you haul a lot of friends in the back seats, and insist on rear fill speakers, get a 4 channel amp (full range) instead of the 2 channel, get a set of midrange speakers (5.25" or 6.5") (not coaxials) and bridge the rear channels of the amp, and wire the rear speakers in series @ 8 ohms. This will prevent you from ruining your soundstage, while still providing vocals for the back seats. Plenty of good component midrange speakers around from companies like Vifa, DLS, Seas, Eaton, and so forth. |
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New member Username: StickeericePost Number: 2 Registered: Apr-10 | thanks wolf. that was really helpful, i might just use this as a guideline on what to get. i tried googling up "focal separates" but nothing really came up. im still a noob, kinda dont know what separates are lol. |
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New member Username: StickeericePost Number: 3 Registered: Apr-10 | nvm its right on the focal website as components lol. would u suggest rewiring my car with new speaker wire? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12900 Registered: Dec-03 | try this site for car audio basics (what things do, etc.) it's an awesome primer for anyone who wnts to learn the basics of audio: http://www.bcae1.com/ also try this one for wiring color codes, and things relating to wiring relays, etc: http://www.the12volt.com/ Separates, as you've discovered are when the midrange and tweeter are two separate speakers, using a separate, external crossover module to split the frequencies going to each speaker, as opposed to a "coaxial" speaker, whre the tweeter is mounted together with the midrange in one "unit." Separates usually offer more flexibility, and will often sound a bit better than a coaxial when installed properly. If you google "Qlogic Qforms" you'll find the pods, color matched to the car maker, and made for your model of Civic. You'll probably want to re-wire the car (not too difficult by tucking the wire under plastic trim panels of the car's interior as you route the wire, or placing it under factory carpeting. decent 18 gauge wire will do fine.) for your speakers since you'll no longer be powering the speakers with the head unit, but instead, with an amplifier which will probably be mounted in the trunk or under a car seat in hte front. Wires will follow different routes that way. The reason I said to use a separate amp for the door and cabin speakers, is because all head units max out at about 8-15 watts per channel, no matter what they claim to produce (60 watts etc) since the claimed output is peak, and the 8-15 watts is an RMS, or "continuous/average" rating. A good full range amp around 40-60 watts per channel will produce a lot more, clean power, and have much more reserve power to handle transient momentary peaks in demand for things like drum beats, and crescendos in vocals, symbols, and so forth. It makes all the difference in the world, sine 70% of audio comes from your front stage, and vocal range. For a good sound quality (SQ) system, a good front stage is more important, in my personal views, than the subs. Here's some info I wrote on rear fill speakers, too, to clarify that topic: http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/rearfill.html |
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New member Username: StickeericePost Number: 4 Registered: Apr-10 | Thanks again wolf. id be lost without cha |
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New member Username: StickeericePost Number: 5 Registered: Apr-10 | well i have been told that i should get CDT separates rather than focal. whats your take on this? would it make a big difference if i ran the rear fill and the front from the head instead of an amp? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12991 Registered: Dec-03 | personally I think Focal's higher end stuff is far better than CDT, but CDT has some very nice components, and they're priced very well for what you get. Yes, the amp will make a night and day difference over a head unit. head units can only really supply about 10-20 watts RMS per channel, with poor S/N, and a lot of THD. A good, separate class AB amplifier will be cleaner, have MUCH more head room, and really allow the speakers to perform the way they are meant to work, even with as little as 40-50 watts RMS per channel @ 4 ohms Remember as a rule of thumb, you typically want a 1:2 ratio or so for power for components to subs. you don't want to feed subs 1000+ watts and only have the cabin speakers, which are 70% of the audio frequency range of your music, only getting 15 watts per speaker. The subs will rally just wash out everything else, and it will sound like unadulterated sh*t |
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New member Username: StickeericePost Number: 6 Registered: Apr-10 | How do you think Focal's Polyglasses are? How are midbass vs midrange speakers for the rear fill? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12999 Registered: Dec-03 | I like the polyglass line, personally, but here's the key: choosing speaker4s has to be a personal choice. Sound is somewhat subjective, and every speaker will sound a bit different to two different sets of ears. What I like, you may not. I prefer the timbre of a speaker that's more laid back and smooth, while some folks like a more aggressive edge to a speaker for things like hard rock with driving guitar work and a lot of drums (ie, Metallica) I'm more of a pink floyd and ella fitzgerald sorta guy though, so I like a more jazz club feel to the components. You should really give Focals a listen and see what you think of them. Decide for yourself. I'm very hesitant to suggest a specific speaker for someone to buy because of this. I may love it, you may not. for rear fill, stick with a midrange speaker. midbass drivers have a very different BL curve, and are designed to handle the 250Hz-50Hz range to cover between a midrange and a subwoofer. Now if that's what you WANT, then go for it, but typically for vocals in the back, you want a midrange without a tweeter or whizzer cone that would draw the soundstage too far rearward. |
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New member Username: StickeericePost Number: 7 Registered: Apr-10 | thanks again wolf, you are more than helpful. should i put midbasses in the door? alongside with the separates in the kickpanels? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 13004 Registered: Dec-03 | you can do that. I recommend you sound deaden the doors with something like dynamat if you run midbass there. they resonate a LOT. Also, go with a sealed driver. you don't want one that needs an enclosure to function properly if its going into a door. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 13005 Registered: Dec-03 | by the way, if you plan to go with a midbass, just get a set of 3-way components. then you get tweeters, midranges, and midbass drivers. DynAudio, CDT, Rainbow, etc.. they all make good 3 ways |