Speakers for 93 Prelude

 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 20
Registered: Jun-04
if any of you know out there.... prelude's have very shallow speaker mounts...

i just have this question....

i want components in front and midbass or 2/3 ways...not shure..just fill


my problem is this

front doors: 6 1/2" speakers
1 7/8" depth

back deck: 6 1/2" speakers
2 3/16 depth


as you see. i dont have much room according to crutchfield)

is there any ore accurate place to find out these specs?

anyone have/know of the sizes in a 93 Prelude?



i like infinity...only the refrences fit...

what should i do..


BTW im running kicker SX amps.... either 900.4 or 700.4


thx
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 21
Registered: Jun-04
how bout those refrences....are they good?
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 3764
Registered: Dec-03
not great, but much better than factory.
 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 111
Registered: Jun-04
It's actually 2 3/16". But the limitation is only imposed by a cup/baffle they used to surround the stock speaker (i.e., there are no real mechanical reasons you can't use bigger).

Take a look at the following guide, then decide how far you're willing to go:
http://www.ntpog.org/mods/fifth-speakers/fifth-speakers.shtml

-Matt
 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 112
Registered: Jun-04
Oh, and the rear limitation is likewise imposed by two deck springs that can be [re]moved.

-Matt
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 22
Registered: Jun-04
but what should i do?


should i buy the kappas and when i get them take the doors apart and try my best to get them to fit


my dad is really good at "making things work" so im shuyre we can figure sumthin out..

or should i take them apart before and see what i can do..


decisions....decisions...


the back...i have figured....took them apart allready and the thing in the way is the back window and thos trunk door black rod thingys...


thanks for that guide tho... although its for newer preludes....have one for a 4th gen lude?



i think i might just pay someone to wire the front doors.... i dont wanna tamper with that... but i should manage with the speakers...


do you have a 4th gen lude?

will infinity kappas (not perfects....nice if they fit tho) fit in the front? the components?

so u mean i dont have 6 1/6" speakers?

or i do they are just....like smaller..or somehting...


im confused..lol


can i fit 6 1/2

all the car speaker guides say 6 1/2..


the kappas are 2 3/16


they should fit if i remove that baffle cradly cup thingy?


is it bad to remove that?


is there any other modding i might need to do?


im too cautious.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 23
Registered: Jun-04
especially when it comes to modding my car and trying to find a good installer...


if i find a good installer...ill prolly have them just install the fronts speakers and wire them...i can do all the other wiring..


is bestbuy and circuit city good at installations?


i dont know of many other places....and i just dont trust them..
 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 114
Registered: Jun-04
You do have 6 1/2" mounts (in diameter), but they are very, very shallow, even compared to standard shallow-mount speakers. But, fortunately, your problem is just a silly plastic cone that Honda put in there -- it's not steel or a support bar or window mechanism. As I understand it, the '93 has the same baffle as the '96. I don't have a Prelude, but asked a friend who went through that rigamarole in '95.

I wouldn't worry so much about replacing the tweeter wires, because that does look like a delicate procedure. Go ahead and re-use the factory wires if you're doing this yourself.

If you go to a BestBuy or Circuit City, they will simply throw 1/2" spacers in front of the kickpanel. Not only is this ugly, but they're usually held in with puny 1" screws that will fall out from the force of opening and closing the door. I guarantee there's a quality install shop in your city that you didn't even know about. :-)

-Matt
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 24
Registered: Jun-04
i was originally going to have someone professionally wire the speakers in the doors... i will install the speakers and install the tweeters which are in the dash not doors like gen 5 ludes..

ill mount the crossover in the dash so only one speaker wire travels through the door..

if u get what i mean..


circuit city said 20 bucks to wire one (1) door..

i thought 40 was a little much..

a 95 prelude should be the same if not exactly the same...

what did he install..

do you know if it would be possible to get perfects in there?

i should probably just open the door panel and see for myself..

the backs im not worried about..



is it bad to remove the little plastic support thing?

is it hard?
 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 116
Registered: Jun-04
The plastic baffle is there for stability purposes, which is why you need to change the mounting screws (as shown in that guide). You can cut it out with a dremel (cutting wheel) or small pruning saw.

After removal, you'll have something like 2 3/4", which is enough for most speakers and definitely the Kappas.

For what it's worth, he says the Polk DBs fit after you cut the baffle and don't need new screw-holes.

-Matt
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 25
Registered: Jun-04
2 3/4..the kappa perfects will then fit.... are the polk better then the infinity...


what else is good that will fit?


drilling holes in whatever we need to is not a problem... metal... we can do it..



what about the price... are the polks that good for the price.... infinity and polk to me are both good... im not that "speaker" inclined that i know which is better.. but i know that in home audio they are both very good..


which would you pick?


also what about the 7 inch ones and the polk momos?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 26
Registered: Jun-04
i can afford pretty much any speaker..

my question is...what is the best i can get.. i mean 500 bucks for components is about my max... but yeah..

then i will just get either 2 or 3 ways of that model speakers?....

its mainly a tossup between the
infinity kappas
infinity kappa perfects
polk DB's
and the polk momo... but i dunno if i can get them to fit..


like i asked before..whats good...what do i look for...and what do i avoid?
 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 124
Registered: Jun-04
If you're adventurous enough to also cut a 4" hole somewhere, the Focal V3E 3-ways are sweet at $400 (80W RMS). I wouldn't tempt fate by trying to go to 7", because your mounting holes are still in steel and fairly well planted.

Put the 6.5" in the door and the 4" close to the tweeter in the dash (this is a point where you'll have to take off the dash and see if/where you have room for a 2" mounting depth).

About the door, if I were you, I'd spread this over two weekends. First, spend one weekend day modding the doors... take 'em apart, cut out the baffles, and get a steel ruler to see exactly how much room you've got, both in terms of width and depth. Put the stock speakers back in. Then, the next day, take off the dash and see if you have any pockets that will accommodate 2" deep by 4" around (you probably will, but it may only be one spot). Now that you know what will fit, get online order your stuff and install them the next weekend (without having to cram the mod job in with the install).

Then sit back and enjoy. With those 3-ways up front, you won't need rear speakers at all.

-Matt
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 27
Registered: Jun-04
that would be awesome..... but i dont know about the 4 inchers... but ill check it out..


if there was a way id get them


so you are saying then they are better then polk and infinity?



im just not shure im up to modding that much...


but if i dont....some time soon i will definately do something like that.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 28
Registered: Jun-04
how about pheonix gold?

they also have 3 ways
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 29
Registered: Jun-04
and i was thinking maybe midbass in the back... the pheonix gold's areonly 9 inches... but what about kicker and RF mid bases?


would that work out good?


ps..

i can get pheonix gold ti elite 6 for 350 bucks
 

Silver Member
Username: Jamtochristian

Williamsport, Pennsylvania USA of course!

Post Number: 106
Registered: Mar-04
The Phoenix gold elite will not come close to Focal. I'm sure many will agree Focal are among the top 3 speaker brands you can buy, so getting the Phoenix gold elites is a joke when comparing them to the K3E's.

Phoenix Gold is definitely not known for making a great speaker... or a great anything for that matter.
 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 126
Registered: Jun-04
I would definitely take the Focals over the PGs. Phoenix has come a long way since they started out, but they're still a 2nd-tier player.

I do credit them with having nice extras; I have the Tantrum X06 crossover because it does pre-amp mono conversion -- I don't really know any others that do. Same can be said for their line-driver converter: very good quality for the money.

-Matt
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 30
Registered: Jun-04
ok, screw PG... i was not shure about them any ways...

but like i said i am not shure about the 3 way components..

but for curiosity... i take it their 2 way components are good too?


what if i went with the best of them that i can afford and then either get a second pair of them in the back or get mid bases in the back.. or what


what do you think'


i have to look into the component 3 ways... there is a nice useful compartment right on the dash that would be perfect... but im not ashure how they will fit...i will have to look into it.. but for now im gonna settle for 2 ways..unless i know i can get 3 ways nicely in my car..


whats a good setup?



i do plan on getting the kicker SX 900.4 amp and kicker solo baric L7 (prolly 2 of them... with a mono amp..)

so yeah... if that makes a diffrentce.

say if i were to get 2 way components and maybe the 2 way components in the back..or sumthin... what amp would be the BEST!
 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 129
Registered: Jun-04
If you can fit the 3-ways in there, that's the way to go; forget about the rear. I like the mono-rear-midbass as fill, but many others on here would object. For a car as small as the Prelude, the 3-ways + subs will be more than enough to get an amazing sound. Follow what I said before and measure before you purchase anything. You do not want to spend a grand on a setup that won't work.

... and watch out for getting too nutty with power; your alternator may not be able to keep up with demand. Plus that amp is complete overkill for just about every component set I can think of. You only need 100W RMS for the Focals or the Perfects.

-Matt
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 31
Registered: Jun-04
the amp is only 112.5 RMS *4

gthats not that much more... gives me room to expand..


im really starting to think that i should just go with the perfects...

the other kicker amp is 87.5*4 i thought it was better to overpower speakers then underpower...


is 12 watts really that much overkill?

here is what i was thinking:

kappa perfects 6.1 in front
kappa 63.5i in rear
kicker SX 900.4

plenty of power... if my alternator craps... i ge a better one...simple..lol

im getting a capacitor for it too... whats 60 bucks?

i heard it helps in some cases...never hurts to have it on them..
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 32
Registered: Jun-04
debating weather to ditch rear speakers or get em

i personally like a good full nice sounding system... and in the ludes... u are just as close to the bacl as the front... the rear seat is so small its useless... nobody can get back there... but the rear speakers are close..

 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 33
Registered: Jun-04
lol another question.... if all my amps i plan to get require 4 guage (im getting 3 amps.. one 4 ch.one mono..one 2 ch for loudspeakers for parties..


should i use 0/1 guage wire.. or 4 guage?


i know its big and prolly wil be a big task.... but do i need 0 guage or will 4 guage work?


money is not an issue and i can run it..


4 guage is still big as well...


mainly will it help... i know it wont hurt..


curiously...how big is 0/1 guage wire....

is it possible to compare it to some household item?

or u can do it mathmatically.


how do i determine how many watts i will be running?

4 guage can run 1400 watts..

0/1 can run like 3400..

stinger that is



 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 135
Registered: Jun-04
Any highs (>5000Hz) coming from behind you will pull the soundstage back. That's how it is.

If you're going to have that many amps, you'll need 0/1 guage from the battery to a distribution block, then 4ga to the amps. At least one cap to keep the on/off power spikes from getting dangerous, and likely an HO alternator to provide juice for all of that.

This is getting into Jonathan and GlassWolf's department, but that's about the state of things.

-Matt
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 34
Registered: Jun-04
i personally dont care much for "stage sound" i like full sound..

full sound that sounds good

i was planning on this: (all stinger)

0/1 guage power wire from normal battery(not deep cycle)

distribution block with display and blown fuse buzzer-- 0/1 to 4 4 or 8 guage

stinger 80 amp MAXI fuses for distro block

silver power wire (for ground of amp and capacitor....4 guage.....)(which brings up a question.... what do you need to ground? capacitor? amp?..and will power wire work for ground??)

stinger hyper series 4 channel interconnect (what is the best interconnect cable at a resonable price that car domain has?

stinger SPM twisted 16 guage speaker wire (will 12 guage fit through door things... is there improvement over 16 guage... they are only going to my components and 3 ways...no subs..

i am planning on getting my subs and amps at a later (soon) time..

and after i get them i will most likely get a deep cycle battery and a hogher AMP alternator..

 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 35
Registered: Jun-04
should i get a capacitor for each amp... or one capacitor and run the 0/1 guage through it...then go to the distro block..then to amps?
 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 138
Registered: Jun-04
You would be better off getting independent caps, although for cost reasons many people don't; but most amps don't power up and down the same way, even from the same manufacturer. 1 Farad for every 1000 peak watts.

You would be better to have smaller fuses for the distro block. Only use 80A if you're going to have 6ga or better going to the amps; I would use 8ga/50A instead.

I like the Phoenix Gold QuadraLink interconnects myself, but CarDomain doesn't carry the 4-ch version "quad twinlink" (QTRX). Nice bullets on 'em. Get whichever ones you like that are around $40.

16ga is fine for the speakers; although do be picky about the connector ends because that's where a lot of problems happen.

-Matt
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 36
Registered: Jun-04
so what AMP fuse should i get.. the distro will be having one 1/0 guage imput... and 2 4 guage outputs (possible 3 but not shure)

speaker connectors....what are some of the good ones that cardomain has..


what about the stinger shr240?
or the sdm 20..

whats cardomains best interconnect thats like 50...60 bucks or so.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 37
Registered: Jun-04
so what AMP fuse should i get.. the distro will be having one 1/0 guage imput... and 2 4 guage outputs (possible 3 but not shure)

speaker connectors....what are some of the good ones that cardomain has..


what about the stinger shr240?
or the sdm 20..

whats cardomains best interconnect thats like 50...60 bucks or so.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 38
Registered: Jun-04
im really bad with the little connector thingys...what kind of wire ends or tips or whatever do i need....

for speakers or amps?


what kind..

im totally confused.

lol


do i need them for my 4 guage... its not a kit just wire im getting..
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 39
Registered: Jun-04
basically what i am asking is what kind do i need for my speakers... all i see is the round ones...i dont think they will work..

and what do i need for my power wire..ibought a 0/1 kit but the 4 gyage is not a kit..
 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 140
Registered: Jun-04
Well, that Kicker SX900.4 takes a 2ga power line, would require a 120A fuse, and has 1% THD at music power. Needless to say, I continue to recommend against this amp.

I personally don't like the plastic bullets on the Stingers, but to each their own. Like I said, any set around 40-50 is going to be good. If it were me, I'd get the QuadraLinks going to an EQ or multi-channel Crossover in the back, then from the EQ to the amps. That would also let you do your rear setup with tuned midbass, if you really insist on putting speakers back there.

-Matt
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 40
Registered: Jun-04
im talking about the fuses in the fused distrobution box..

and whats with that 120A fuse... do i need to purchace one.. whats the deal?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kyleb1115

Post Number: 41
Registered: Jun-04
o and what length for the RCA's... i heard shorter is better... what ahold be a good amount?
 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 141
Registered: Jun-04
You'd need a 120A fuse in the dbox because that 2ga wire is going to be carrying a lot of load to the SX900.4 (which has its own 120A fuse). It's to make sure you don't melt the jacket right off the wire (between the dbox and the amp) and have a carfire, which would suck. Again, that amp is total overkill for your purposes and to top it off is going to be an extra PITA wiring.

Shorter is better because you have less wire capable of picking up stray RF signals.

Using a piece of string, make a path from the HU to about 14" behind the rear seats, following wherever you think the cable would go. That's how long RCA you need. Then add 6' and that's about how much 0ga you'll need to go from the battery, through the firewall, and to the back of the car (preferably on a different path).

-Matt
 

Bronze Member
Username: Demigod33

Post Number: 89
Registered: Jun-04
i have a accord '03

i wanted kappa perfect 6.5 in the door

same problem

solution?

i cut a bigger f'ing door in the door, problem solve.

result? perfect fit
 

Silver Member
Username: Mattl

Bolingbrook, Illinois USA

Post Number: 222
Registered: Jun-04
Demi, you are an F'ing problem.

An '03 Accord is absolutely nothing like a '93 Prelude, mental patient. Honda "addressed" the problem by adding 7/8" in '01.

Please stop posting.

-Matt
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