Amp overheating
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New member Username: Yfz_rcr_12NC Post Number: 5 Registered: Aug-08 | Is it normal for an amp to get very warm? It's not to hot to touch, but it's very warm. If it isn't normal, what can cause this? |
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Silver Member Username: Hittin1Lake Charles, La. United States Post Number: 928 Registered: May-07 | yes it is common for you amp to get warm... very warm in fact. What amp are you refering to and what is it pushing? |
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Silver Member Username: Hittin1Lake Charles, La. United States Post Number: 929 Registered: May-07 | and where is it mounted? |
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Platinum Member Username: WingmanaliveA pic is worth 1000 posts!! Post Number: 17723 Registered: Jun-06 | Warm is gooood.  is baaad. |
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New member Username: Yfz_rcr_12NC Post Number: 6 Registered: Aug-08 | well it's a clarion apx 1300 pushing a 13w7, but the amp is only temporary. |
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Silver Member Username: QuirkySA, Texas Post Number: 301 Registered: Feb-07 | http://caraudioclassifieds.org/index.php?topic=121.0 just stumbled across this, looks like a good buy for that W7. |
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Gold Member Username: Nd4spd18Northwest PA Post Number: 8095 Registered: Jul-06 | That is normal. Also some amps run hotter than others, and it's not bad if the heatsink is hot. It IS bad when the amp shuts off and is extremely hot. |
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Gold Member Username: 420alldaylongPost Number: 3794 Registered: Sep-06 | clarion apx 1300 400x1 at 4ohm 300x1 at 2ohm Your W713" can be wired to .75ohm or 3ohm. Do you smell anything while bumping the sub. |
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Gold Member Username: Nd4spd18Northwest PA Post Number: 8098 Registered: Jul-06 | Hey good call joey. If thats wired to .75 you're gonna burn up that amp. |
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New member Username: Yfz_rcr_12NC Post Number: 7 Registered: Aug-08 | I have it wired in a series. Another thing i am concerned about is voltage drop. The voltage changes alot even when the car is running. |
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Gold Member Username: Nd4spd18Northwest PA Post Number: 8102 Registered: Jul-06 | Well the sub is wired right then, 3 ohms. But if your voltage is dropping that much, it's HO alternator time no 2 ways about it. And a better battery would be good also. And damn, if you're getting that much voltage drop with only a 400w amp you're really going to need a beefed up electrical for anything bigger. |
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New member Username: Yfz_rcr_12NC Post Number: 8 Registered: Aug-08 | Would the amp in the link above be a good amp to push my w7? Also, is it stable bridged at 3 ohms? |
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Silver Member Username: TeamrevolutionATLANTA, GA USA Post Number: 325 Registered: May-07 | I get my amps hot enough to cook an egg. Amps have diffrent temps they can reach before they go into protect or fail. Check your input voltage and your voltage drop to see if there are problems. If either is lacking you will run the amp hot. A bad ground can also cause it to heat up fast. But when you run a amp SUPER hard for a long time they are going to get rather hot. Make sure you keep good air flow to them. |
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Gold Member Username: The_image_dynamicSan Diego, California Post Number: 4458 Registered: Dec-06 | Agreed. Class A/B amps, like DLS for example, get especially hot because the push-pull design causes power (efficiency) loss and relies heavily on traditional heat dissipation. Most modern amps are built especially for high internal temps, and the components, circuit boards and glues are all far better at handling heat then even a few years ago. Also, most will ramp down (reduce power output) when the circuitry senses that the amp is nearing protect mode. The key to having an amp that will last a long time is to have adequate airflow all around the chassis, even underneath. It also helps the amp fans to expel the hot air if there is cool air circulating around, and not equally hot trapped air that defeats the fan's purpose. It's a catch-22 because having your amps out in the open attracts thieves, but simple physics will tell you that heat producing components need fresh air to survive. |
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