Archive through May 28, 2008
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 70 Registered: May-07 | Kelly and Dank - The one color problem could be either your color wheel or your DMD board. The DMD board controls the colorwheel RPM in order to create the vibrant exact colors that you see. I would call your warranty provider for an inpection! | |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 71 Registered: May-07 | Brad Peppers: It seems to me that you are electronic savey enough to check that board for SMFs (surface mount fuse) and SMDs (surface mount diodes) to see if there is any open circuits preventing the board to send power to the fan. The TV doesn't necesarily detect the RPMs of the fan, rather checks to see if all circuits are in tact that lead to the Fan. You might want to take a closer look at the board before you replace it. Also, a factory reset may help as well.. I believe I saw a function in one of the service menu's about turning fan sensor or the actual fan on/off/auto .. If you have enough time with the set on you may want to look into it. | |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 72 Registered: May-07 | Paul Stap: The problem you are describing is 100% the color wheel. Your part number for your TV sets color is BP96-01103A ... Order it, install it, and your good to go again! Satisfaction Gauranteed! Let us know how it goes. |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 73 Registered: May-07 | Bob, Your best diagnosis would be to replace the lamp. Faulty lamps can work anywhere between 2 minutes to 2 hours before shutting off. Again, my favorite provider is Discount-Merchant.com ... $109.99 + $11 shipping.. You can't loose. Cheaper than a service call. You buy 2 lamps, they ship for free.. ONLY IF YOU ASK THEM ABOUT THAT PROMO! If the lamp doesn't resolve the issue, your ballast is at fault. 3 peices in your TV may go bad in order to cause this intermittent problem... 1. Lamp 2. Color Wheel 3. Ballast I'm assuming your TV doesn't hum, whine, or make as scratching noise before it turns off or when it is on.. So I would go with 1 and 3. |
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New member Username: BpepersPost Number: 3 Registered: Dec-07 | ovadoggo: I was able to track down that the surface mount part BD151 is fried (visible char marks around it) and on the schematic diagram its on the analog board and part of the circuit supplying power to the sub detector/actuator which is what powers the fan and its even on the 12V line which is the power to the fan. So I'm pretty sure thats my problem. I haven't figured out yet if its a surface mount diode or fuse. The part number in the schematic diagram is CIC21J601NE and my best guess is that it is a fuse and I've been debating whether to just solder each side together and see if that fixes things. Any thoughts on whether this is at all wise or incredibly daft? I'm worried that I don't know what caused the part to fry and if I hook it back up, the fuse is now not doing its job and if there is some power supply problem it could fry more things. On the other hand its just the fan that has a problem so it doesn't seem likely that there is a power supply problem and perhaps its just that when the lamp exploded it caused some power spike. I replaced the fan and also the sub detector/actuator board so far so its down now to the analog board. As for turning off the fan detection, I actually haven't looked through the service menus but I did read the service manual which lists all the options and none of them mention the fan. I'll check the actual TV though just in case the manual is incorrect. I only get around 30 seconds before the set turns off though which makes it hard to check much! Thanks for your input! |
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New member Username: Ap514Post Number: 2 Registered: Dec-07 | RE:HELP DLP HL-R6168w Hey guys opened up the COLOR WHEEL COVER..Wheel is toast..Ordered Wheel Will install in a few days |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 74 Registered: May-07 | Brad, The part you are referring to sounds to be a diod. DO NOT just connect both ends with solder. The diode has a certain impedence wich is consistent to other parts on the circuit. In your case, the CIC refers to refers to a diode, the 21 refers to the size of 2mm x 1.25mm, the J refers to the fact that it has a noise filter of 100mhz to 300mhz, and the 601 (or 60 x 10^1 = 600) refers to its OHMS wich is 600 U .. the N stands for the thickness with is Normal or Standard, and E means that it is an embossed (plastic) type. I know for some people that means nothing, but for others it is a breakdown of the functions of the diode. The part is manufactured by SEM (Samsung Electro-Mechanics) and should be a common diode in other samsung electronics. I'm assuming Radio Shack would carry a compatible diode with those characteristics. If not, call Digikey or Arrow Electronics North America Components to see if you can have them send you a "sample". Hopefully replacing that part will resolve your problem. I hope I was helpful! |
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New member Username: A58strodPost Number: 4 Registered: Oct-07 | ovadoggvo: I tried replacing the bulb already. It did not change a thing. It still clicks on and off and doesn't try to power on what-so-ever. I was considering buying a balast but haven't been to thrilled at the idea of throwing more money at it if it's not the answer. What do you think should be my next step? Also, for anyone else interseted, I since found out that the bulbs are of florencent nature so they will not measure any resistance, good or bad. |
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New member Username: Travel_godPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-08 | hello all, i have a samsung hlm507w purchased in 2003. i have had to replace the lamp twice, and the cooling fan once fortunately all under warranty. well 2 weeks after the extended warranty expired the tv shut itself of. if i let it sit for a while then turn it back on it works fine for 3 to 5 minutes then shuts off again. had a repairman out who told my wife the "power unit" was bad. charged her 100.00 to give her that news then offered to take the tv off our hands at no charge. i have searched samsungparts.com and tristatemodule.com. the closest i can come to a "power unit" is a PCB Power Assy - part number BP94-00025A. does anyone know if this is the elusive power unit? and if so can it be replaced by an amateur without destroying the tv. thanks |
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New member Username: Mikoo1965Post Number: 4 Registered: Aug-05 | I have Samsung HL-R5667W for about 2.5 years. I just got new color wheel installed but I see bad picture (got this picture from another post who seems to have same problem) in bad light as you shown below. Anyone have any idea?  |
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New member Username: BpepersPost Number: 4 Registered: Dec-07 | ovadoggo: thanks for the hint on who makes the CIC21J601NE. I found the part in the SEM online part list. They list it as a "chip bead" which they say is a SMD passive component to eliminate electromagnetic noise. The CIC series is the high current bead (~3A) and as you say its made to suppress noise in the 100-300 MHz range. Looks to me like its meant to suppress any noise on the circuit that could be coming from the fan so perhaps its not all that vital a component (famous last words???!!!). I agree that the circuit may be designed for the impedance of 600 ohms so just shorting around the blown SMD may be a bad idea but it doesn't look like this thing is really a diode and its a pretty passive device that could be replaced with a resistor of 600 ohms to maintain its characteristics though not its function. Ideally I'd like to buy just one of these things but I doubt that would be possible from SEM so I'll have to work around it some other way! I did look at DigiKey and they have a ferrite bead part which is rated at 3A, 600 ohms, and 100Mhz so that sounds like the same kind of thing so perhaps I'll purchase some of them and give that a try. Thanks for your help and hints! |
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New member Username: Al_mHouston, TX US Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-07 | I have a HLM507W DLP I bought in Dec of 2002. It went out Dec of 2007. 5 years it lasted me. My audio is fine, it's my picture that goes out. Samsung certified Tech came out to check my TV. He took it and they said it was my DM board that was bad. That's an $800 repair on top of the $100 for coming out to my home. I believe the DM board and digital board are one in the same. I called Samsung back to give verification that it was the digital board, but I was told that I was out of warranty and would need to pay for repairs myself. I've read on this forum on people being offered the "S" model for the cost of shipping, but not the case with me. What should I do? Please Help!!! | |
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New member Username: TxengSan FernandoTrinidad and... Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-07 | Hi there. I am new to this very informative and resourceful forum. NEED HELP! Bought a refurbish Samsung HLR 5067W without warranty. The TV woked for three hours and then the screen went blank. However I was able to get the menu and changed to PIP. Only the sub channel was showing and sound was coming from the main chanel. On swapping, the video changed, still no picture on the main channel. After obtaining a service manual and doing some trouleshooting I identified that the Digital board was the culprit. I replaced the D-Board and this worked fine for about six hours. When I turned on the TV the next day it lit up for two seconds then froze for another second, turned off and restarted. The light bulb is on and no lights on the power button .This cycle was repeted until the TV was unpluged. The power button on both the TV and remote was not turning it off. I then reinstalled the original D-board and now it is doing the same thing as the "new board". Can someone identify what is causing this problem and provide a solution. I will be forever grateful. Much Thanks |
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New member Username: BdubwirthPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-08 | Hello. I have a Samsung HL-P4663W/HL that was purchased new in the fall of 2004. When the TV was approximately 2 years old, it started shutting off between 30 minutes and 2 hours with no error LEDs. The "switch board" was replaced by a certified Samsung tech. Recently, the same issue has started to occur: shuts off, no LEDs, varying times (up to 3 hours at times). No visible changes in the picture quality (i.e. brightness), no strange noises from the TV, and NO error LEDs on the front after shutdown to indicate lamp, overtemp, etc. I have unplugged the TV, but the issue resurfaces. Any thoughts on this issue before I call the tech and Samsung. Thanks. | |
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New member Username: LawdogPost Number: 2 Registered: Sep-05 | This looks like a great site with many helpful Samsung-o-philes here. I'm hoping you can help me. I have an HLR5067w I bought in October 2005, and it has been great, no problems. Recently, though, the picture has been starting to get sporadic fluorescent green "feedback" around the edges of images, etc. I haven't read of a similar description of this problem on this site. It seems more or less like image "feedback" of some sort. At first, it started primarily when watching DVR replays, but then last night, it started showing up (again, just for a few seconds here and there) when watching a DVD (thus, from a different video source). I can't imagine it's the inputs, which are fine. I'm worried primarily b/c I see alot of problems on this site with the "digital board", and am hoping that's not the problem. Any thoughts? It doesn't seem like replacing the color wheel or lamp would have anything to do with this, from what I can tell... | |
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New member Username: TphanichSan Diego, CA US Post Number: 2 Registered: Dec-07 | HEY GUYS! i found a coupon code for samsung lamps on discount-merchant.com the coupon code is "sbxlii", It's only valid up until Superbowl for $42 off 3 lamps. |
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New member Username: PepcmanRiverside, CA USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Jan-08 | I have recently aquired a Samsung HL-P6163W rear projection tv from my son and what a great picture but I have a constant low pitched humming sound that if I need to I can live with but I also from time to time am getting a very loud crackling sound that come and goes. After reading many blogs it sounds like this is my color wheel but figured I would discribe mine to make sure I have diagnosed this correctly. Any help is appreciated, Jon |
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New member Username: XrufisxPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-08 | I have a HLP4667 about 3 years old. A while back I noticed that if shut off then turned back on I would loose color. Now, there was still "color" it just seemed as if there was no red present this would stay indefinatly until you read further. Now if i turned the tv off and kept it off for at least 20 minutes then turned it back on the color would still be missing. However, if I waited 5 seconds the color would start flashing in as a seperate image. It appears to move horizontally across the screen at I would say tens of revolutions a second staying in some spots longer than others but always longer in the same spots. Allowing this to continue for about 20 seconds it would "snap" inline with the out of color image and the tv would function perfectly. Until powered down. This technique ONLY worked while the tv was set to dynamic. Now, the color flashes but never "snaps" into place. Had a tech out, he replaced the board the hdmi and dvi connect to but that didnt work. He didnt call me or answer the phone for 3 weeks so screw him. Any suggestions? I have tried a variety of things. The only thing I find worth mentioning is, if I disconnect the color wheel by only the white wire, keeping the flat wire connected, the color wheel upon power up of the unit does make noise everytime it spins up however it is much louder than the normal spin up noise. However with both wires connected just the normal spin up noise occurs. Suggestions and thoughts appriciated. | |
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New member Username: XrufisxPost Number: 2 Registered: Jan-08 | Also, if it is not (mute 182) to enter the diagnostics, if anyone knows how that would be awesome. | |
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Silver Member Username: JumpbackPost Number: 148 Registered: Nov-05 | Budding problem. I have a 61" Samsung DLP that gets a lot of use. It is 18 months old. Recently, when the set is turned on the sound comes on but there is no picture. I have rebooted Direct TV so that is not the problem. So far I have been able to get a picture by changing channels. That worked for awhile. Now, when the set cranks up and there is no picture if I mash the source button a picture will appear when I get back to HDMI. Any guesses as to what the problem is? Thanks |
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New member Username: LjbPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-08 | I have a 50" Samsung DLP TV. The screen went black and white like an old burnt 8mm movie when the film gets stuck. I called my TV store and they indicated I needed a new DMD board that would cost about $1000.00. My set was 3 months out of the extended 4 year warranty I purchased. I called Samsung and they could do nothing. I even spoke to Debbie in Samsung Executive Customer Relations and she offered no solutions. I took off the back of the set, bypassed the interlock switch, installed a small kitchen fan behind it to blow on the electronics and it has worked fine ever since. I believe Samsung has the temperature electronics monitor set too low or has inadequate cooling for the electronics. It has worked for almost two weeks now. In the two weeks the lamp went bad that I just installed last year. I put the old lamp that I kept from the last service call back in and it worked! About two days later the old lamp went bad and I replaced it with the new lamp I just took out. It worked too and is still working. I wrote a letter to Samsung and am waiting for a reply. Bottom line, no more Samsung unless the letter from them is a good one. Yea, right! L | |
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New member Username: XrufisxPost Number: 3 Registered: Jan-08 | Update: Tv started doing this, can you see the double image appearing. .  |
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New member Username: Giants_fanFleetwood , Pa Usa Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-08 | i have a samsung dlp...hlr4266. i use my ps3 on this tv and when i do the tv shuts down. i turn it back on and it will work for a few more minutes then again the same thing. But when i have my ps3 disconnected it works fine. i had it disconnected for over a month and had no problems. then when i connected it again the same thing happened but alot more often. My xbox 360 or my directtv hd dvr does not give me this problem. So is it the ps3 or is it my tv???? | |
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New member Username: D0517Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-08 | I have a 6178W I purchased fall 2005, generally it has worked great, I had to replace the lamp about 3 months ago. I was playing around trying to get HDMI hookups to work with Motorola cable box and new Sony BRDVD to no avail. I went back to component for both but after playing with this I notice a semi transparent vertical grey line on the left side of the screen (about 2 inches in). The rest of the picture is flawless. I have seen what appear to be similar problems in this post but did not notice any suggestion or a fix. Any help would be appreciated. Dave |
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New member Username: Cosmo2CT Post Number: 3 Registered: Feb-08 | LJB, Did you get your DMD replaced, or your set fixed? I have the same problem on my HLM507W, purchased in Nov. of 2002. Flickering white strobe which gets progressively worse and turns into a photo-negative if you will, becoming pretty much unwatchable. Called Samsung ECR as well and I got the "we don't have any reports of these symptoms". Offered zero help because tv is out of warranty. Really hesitant to spend $1000 to fix it. But I would hate to junk a tv that I paid $3500 for just five years ago. Plus when working, I love the picture. Still very annoyed with Samsung customer care. |
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New member Username: Stanman00Hamilton, Ontario Canada Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-08 | here is my story i m in canada and bought a samsung hls6186w dlp tv from leons ive had this tv for 14 months did not get extendid warranty big mistake that will never happen again one night it just shut off i tried to turn back on heard a squeeling from it tried to turn itself on a couple of times but no go then just shut off so i waited a bit say 10 min i turned it on and it worked picture came but then it just went black still had sound for a few seconds then it shut off tried to turn back on heard the squeeling again tried to turn itself on again a couple of time then off changed the lamp same thing so icall tech he comes says its the lamp so he tries to change it quess what didnt work what goof this clown was now its a color wheel ballast and lamp hes says all by just listening to it cant belive all three parts are bad tried to get some help from samsung but there goofs too wont help at all tvs only 14months im gonna fix it myself any help would be greatthanx | |
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New member Username: Why_nowPost Number: 2 Registered: Feb-08 | I have a 56 inch samsung model no. HLR5656W. Bought it brand new two years ago and everything was fine until a month ago when it started shutting off on its own and not coming back on for up to four hours later. Then it would come back on and run fine for a few days. Well five days ago it did the same thing again for the fourth time and I haven't been able to turn it on since. I've tried plugging it in in different outlets that I know are working and no response. Its like its not receiving power any longer. Is there any thing I should look for or try on my own before possibly spending a fortune to get it repaired? | |
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New member Username: Stephen11Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-08 | I have a 50 inch Samsung HLR5067W. Bought it back in December 05 brand spanking new. Two weeks ago I started having issues where the TV wouldnt turn on. I would hit the power button and the lamp light would blink continously and after a couple of minutes the TV would just go back into standby (power off) mode. So far, out of about 100 attempts, I have only been able to get the TV to turn on twice. Also, I have already replaced the lamp hoping that would fix it but it still doesnt want to turn on. I have seen some similar threads in regards to this issue, but havent come across any answers. Anybody have any ideas as to what the problem is and how to fix it? | |
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New member Username: ZippychimpPost Number: 2 Registered: Jan-07 | I have a Samsung HLN 5065W purchased in 9/03 for $4,000. I have had numerous problems with it over the years, and even had the color wheel replaced under warranty about 2 years ago by Samsung. Recently, the picture would suddenly freeze and become this weird black and white pixelated image - almost like a film negative. You can still hear the sound but the picture remains frozen. I took the set to an "authorized" repair center in my area and they told me today that it needs a new light engine and that my DMD module is bad. They quoted me $800-$900 to fix this. I told the tech I could buy a new 50" Samsung set for about $1,000 these days. The TV is just over 4 years old, so it is no longer under warranty. It really bothers me that I paid $4,000 for this thing and it has only lasted 4 problem-plagued years. Any suggestions before I call Samsung and see if they will replace the light engine if I pay the labor to install? I would love to know any tips/tacts you have used that is successful. I have another 50" Samsung DLP I bought last year, but also bought a 4 year extended warranty on. That one only cost $1,400 so it won't be as painful if it breaks after a few years. As much as I love the picture quality (when it works), I think I am done with Samsung and lamp-based projection technology. Looking at this thread, it is amazing how many people have had problems with these sets. Just imagine how many more have suffered in silence and not posted about their frustrations on a board like this? Samsung needs to do the right thing! These sets are lemons. | |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 81 Registered: May-07 | Brad Peppers: I'm sorry I haven't been on here to help you out a bit more. The ferrite bead from digikey will do just fine. Have you ordered it and tried to see if it fixes the issue. If not, I can look at the schematics of the board to see if we can manually pull current from another circuit to power the fan. | |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 82 Registered: May-07 | Pat, Samsung TV's have evolved greatly over the last 5 years. Your HLN series television was a beauty for its time, and still has a comparable picture to some of the later model DLPs which use the latest generation DLP chips. I wouldn't bash on Samsung because they are by far the biggest manufacturer of DLP projection TV's in the world... This is why there are so many posts on this forum.. Not because Samsung creates poor quality televisions. I'm sure when you first purchased your Samsung TV set, you were told that it will last you forever... Well, it was a "Sales Tactic".. All electronics (even those so called "reliable" LCD TVs) have problems over time... it's the nature fo the business! Either way.. I have found that the parts are also becoming cheaper and cheaper. The other day I bought a BP96-01579A color wheel for an HLT series Samsung for a measly $79, along with the BP47-0037A ballast for $69 at Discount-Merchant.com ---- Then the lamp (which used to cost over $250) when this technology was release is now at a measily $109... Pretty much rebuilt the whole 71" Samsung TV for $250 cost. I pay more than that in GAS in a 2 week period! Of course some labor goes along with that as well but some nice guides are available here: http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/guides.php for those whom are not familiar with the colorwheel, ballast, and lamp replacement procedures. All in all, if you like to get your hands a bit dirty but have a learning experience you can rebuild your DLP tv for $250 and about 4-6 hours of work! |
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New member Username: D0517Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-08 | Ovadoggvo, Any insight into my "grey vertical line" problem (posted above)? It is constant on the right side of the screen. I just replaced the lamp a few months ago and it first appeared aftre I tried to get HDMI connections to work on my new Sony BluRay and my older Motorola set top box (to no avail, although HDMI works fine with me older upconverting DVD and with my AppleTV). Thanks |
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New member Username: ZippychimpPost Number: 5 Registered: Jan-07 | Ovadoggvo, Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate you taking the time. Regarding your advice to replace the color wheel, ballast, and lamp for $250... I am told I also need a new DMD board/chip and the tech recommends it is cheaper to just get a whole new light engine ($800-$900). This DLP TV is turning into a money pit! I can't justify dropping $800-$900 into this when I could buy a new dlp or plasma for $1,200. I checked ebay and these sets have practically ZERO resale value as the final insult to injury. |
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New member Username: BuddPost Number: 2 Registered: Feb-08 | Hi, Sorry I'm posting here because I started a new thread before...shoulda put it here!!! Great forum here....hope I can get some help. I have a Samsung HLP5063W... 2 years old (out of Warrenty - bought at Costco). About 1 week ago started to experience vertical lines on the screen after watching the TV for about about an hour. It does this on the Sat and DVD so it is the TV. It looks like a bunch of black lines throughout screen... almost like there is a poor connection somewhere ( I checked there is not). It goes away but comes back after a few minutes. The colour on the screen also sometimes on start-up is all red or blue...when I turn it on/off a couple times it seems fine. I called Samsung.... they had nothing to offer..."bring it to a service place".... I ended up unplugging the TV for a day and it worked fine for like 4 days after but the problem re-surfaced. I brought it to a service place and the guy has had the TV for 3 days and says he has not seen the problem yet.... has not done any diagnostics in it.... said "I need to see the problem." I have detailed the problem to him. I might just go back to Costco and demand an exchange. Anybody got any suggesstions on what the problems are? Thanks |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 92 Registered: May-07 | Dave Carlen, Sorry I don't have the time to help everyone out and I do seem to miss some posts here and there. My 2 cents on your problem seems to be a collapsing light tunnel. This is common on the older DLP sets as the project the light into a mirrored light tunnel (pretty much a square tunnel made of mirrors). The heat from the lamp loosens the adhesive used to hold the mirrors in a perfect "square" format.. Sometimes in a move, or even from standard wear and tear the LEFT or RIGHT (and at times the TOP) MIRROR begins to collapse. Realligning the darn thing is a super challenge and getting to it means digging into the heart of your television. Most technicians or repair shops just tell you "get a new light engine" ... This is because they do not go into extensive light engine rebuilding as I have with these TVs. I don't know about the end user, but I have called Discount-Merchant.com before and "requested" a used or refurbished light engine and they have had it in stock but for servicers only. I would call them at 619-710-2637 x203.. They are very helpful in finding out whether or not they have a light engine or DMD board in stock.. If not, they might be able to source it for you... I have bought a few from them at $380 and others $490 with a new lamp. Partstore would sell the same engine without the lamp for $800-$900... Which costs as much as a new TV. I would look for used or refurbished parts in order to save money. They should last you another few years until you decide to change out your TV. |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 93 Registered: May-07 | Pat, I would recommed the same to you as i did to Dave up above. I'm sure with enough consumer requests Discount-Merchant will begin to stock light engines. I see new items on their site on a daily basis, and many are what manufacturers or Samsung themselves dont carry.. like the BP96-00674A colorwheel!!! They have 140 in stock when samsung was on nationwide backorder.. How they did it is beyond me! |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 94 Registered: May-07 | Brad Hunt, The problem you are describing is pretty commond in the HLN and HLP series DLP's. Seems to me that your DMD board is failing... The problem seems to be a cold solder on the graphic processor or where the video out feed connector seats onto the board. What happens is when your TV begins to heat up, the solder begins to loose contact... Sometimes you can disasseble the dmd board from your TV, lay the board flat on its back, and VERY CAREFULLY go over the components with the heat guns nozzle about 4 inches away from the board.. make sure you don't shake or move the board and that it is laying flat.. if not, you will move the components or the graphic processor while the solder is hot and you will ruin the board. I RECOMMEND A TECHNICIAN to do this work (called reworking the solder).. Before you move it, give it 15-20 minutes to cool... In many cases you will fix the situation.. in others you won't.. And in some cases you will make it worse! Buy hey.. it's worth a try before you spend $300-400 on a new dmd board! |
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New member Username: TomgPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-08 | I have the same problem as Gary Baird above - multiple series of thin black vertical lines on the screen - regardless of the video source (cable box, dvd). There are about six lines in each group - with each grouping 2-3 ins apart (10 groupings in all). Any idea what the problem could be? | |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 100 Registered: May-07 | Tom, It's most likely your DMD Board. I'd have a technician look at it. Be sure that your technician has extensive experience with DLP and LCD Projection technology... or else a problem like this could take months to fix with a lot of guess work and wasted money on un-needed parts. |
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New member Username: Dland64Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-08 | I have a Samsung 50 inch (HL-P5067W). It has worked great for almost three years. Yesterday, the picture went out (audio still works). Do not have the "three blinking lights", and at the rear of the TV, a bright light is still coming from the bulb's location, indicating to me that this is not a bulb issue. Any thoughts on the problem, and will it be worth it to fix it? |
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New member Username: RedchickenNorth bend, Oregon USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-08 | i have a Samsung HL-T6176S 61" DLP TV which i bought about a week or two ago. Today i was playing Call of Duty 4 and in some of the darker shaded areas of the game there would be this blue static. i had the TV set to dynamic picture but when i changed it to movie the blue static was reduced significantly. could anyone help me with the cause of this problem and possible ways to fix it. | |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 113 Registered: May-07 | Darryl, I beleive the lamp is the problem in this case. Even though your lamp may seem lit, it may not be producing enough light to light-engine to turn on to process the light. For you techs out there: A good test is to connect the lamp outside of the TV's designated lamp area... You will notice that if the lamp is not pointing into the tunnel, the TV will not trigger "on". The light tunnel has a light spectrum sensor that triggers with the light intensity. My first diagnosis would be to purchase a new lamp. . . . . Michael, The problem you are describing seems to be an HDMI cable noise issue. Have you tried changing your HDMI cable? Have you tried connecting your XBOX/PS3 through component to see if you are getting the same static? Try that out and let us know what the results are... BTW, good choice on the LAMP based DLP set... The LED based DLP sets have been giving me power issues that are sparatic. I don't think the technology is fully evolved yet. |
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New member Username: RedchickenNorth bend, Oregon USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Mar-08 | I'm actually using my component cables because i haven't bought that $50 XBOX HDMI cable... maybe ill have to break down and get one and see if that changes anything... thanks for the input... this forum has a lot of good information and ill be sure to keep checking it for updates on info... | |
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Bronze Member Username: Kumar_shahNew York, NY United States Post Number: 17 Registered: Aug-06 | Michael Burgmeier: You don't have to spend a bundle on HDMI cables. Save your money (pay $6.50) and buy a cheap HDMI cable at a place like http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=2018. HDMDI transmits digital data, which means that for distances less than 50 feet or so, a cheap cable is just as good as an expensive one. |
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New member Username: MakanPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-08 | I've had my 61" HLR 5662 about 2 years ago (no more warranty). I started having problems with it shutting off and blinking the temp and lamp leds on the front. This doesn't happen regularly, but it does happen in waves. Recently, it happens more and more often. I want to know if other people have same kind of problems? And if yes, what could be the solution? | |
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New member Username: JagxjsPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-08 | HLP 5063W TV begins to start, from the back the lamp lights for a moment, then turns off and lamp indicator blinks on front of set. This may have been discussed 1000 times but I can't see my problem. Please advise |
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Bronze Member Username: Sjones1Post Number: 44 Registered: May-07 | Ben, How old is the lamp? If 2-3 years, your best best it to change it. If the lamp was just replaced, it's your ballast. Change that. It's much cheaper to follow this model rather than getting a tech to your house...and they will follow the same rules as above... |
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Bronze Member Username: Sjones1Post Number: 45 Registered: May-07 | Makan, It's your lamp...remember guys...about 85% of the time, its your lamp...then it could be a color wheel or ballast problem...and next its a DMD or your whole light engine has to be replaced. |
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New member Username: Stomp210Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | I have an HLR5067W Worked fine for just about two years then two days ago I went to turn it on and no start up jingle and the lamp light just flashes for a minute then stops. You can see the light coming from the back and the screen has a dim glow to it but no picture or sound. Then within three minutes the set goes to standby. Last night I took it apart and cleaned out the dust and reseated the bulb. The TV fired up and worked all night. Although the picture disappeared on a couple of occasions but returned within a couple of seconds. Now this morning the set exhibits the same symptoms as it did before the cleaning. Hope it's the lamp can anyone confirm? Thanks Jeff |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 133 Registered: May-07 | Jeff, 100% the lamp! The weak lamp will work intermittently and may experience firing issues (means will power on occasionally but not consistently).. Buy from a reliable source.. Buy Philips brand original! Don't get fooled by generic 3rd party DNGO, APO, or OSRAM brand... Make sure they supplier is selling your 100% original and not the following: 100% OEM "Compatible" 100% ORIGINAL "Compatible" "OEM Quality" I see this crap all over ebay and the internet.. It's making me sick to my stomach.. Ask for the Philips brand... You may save 10-20 bux buying a generic, but you will go through a lamp every 6-8 months rather than 2-3 years. Then you end up on this forum agian, wondering if you should change other parts on your TV because your lamp keeps failing... Or you end up throwing away a perfectly fine TV thinking that it's a money pit... It's not! The reality is that 50% people go through their second lamp 2x-3x faster than their first one, because they didn't know that the replacement they put in there was aftermarket! Partstore.com is a good source for original Philips brand lamps and so is Discount-Merchant.com ... $109 ... you can't lose! I just found out that Discount-Merchant.com is now offering 2 year extended warranty plan on their parts, but i dont' know if it applies to TV lamps.. But they do offer free shipping if you buy 2.. So you have many options on securing that investment. Let us know what happens! |
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New member Username: Stomp210Post Number: 2 Registered: Apr-08 | Ovadoggvo Thanks for the prompt reply I just ordered one from discount-merchant. It should be here early next week. I'll let you know how it goes. Fingers crossed...thanks again. Jeff |
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New member Username: Dland64Post Number: 2 Registered: Mar-08 | Ovadoggvo, thanks for the advice above. Tried a replacment lamp directly from Samsung, but still the same problem ... "see the bright light" coming from the back, but the screen does not turn on at all. Any thoughts/suggestions? | |
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New member Username: Stomp210Post Number: 4 Registered: Apr-08 | Ovadoggvo, It was indeed the bulb. I got my new one today, much sooner than expected. I installed it following the excellent directions also found here and am now watching the Red Sox in HD. Upon further inspection the old bulb did have a slight fogging on one side. But once again thanks to all of you, if not for this forum I would have been at the mercy of customer support and a TV repair man. Waiting much longer than a week and paying much more than $120. So cheers to you this tasty Guinness goes to you all. Jeff |
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New member Username: Stomp210Post Number: 5 Registered: Apr-08 | Spoke to soon. I replaced the bulb and the TV shuts down and starts up fine. It seems to work with out the intermittent shutdowns. So I hooked up all of the other components... Some connections are fine. HDMI from cable DVR PC PS2 The other connections are green and scrambled. VCR DVD (both RCA and Component) TV tuner (some digital channels are ok) I hope it's not the board. Looking for more help. Thanks Jeff |
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New member Username: Devildoge9Leesburg, Va USA Post Number: 7 Registered: Jan-06 | Hi All, I have an HLS 6187 Samsung DLP which I purchased from Best Buy back in Aug 2006. Warranty expired, and of course did not extend. Back in Nov 07 I experienced the random shutdowns tat several others have reported. I was disappointed because the tv was just over a year old. Anyway, Samsung did the right thing and covered it by e\replacing the bulb for me. It still baffles me that it went bad in such a short period of time. Just last Friday before I went out of town the picture, which is norally phenomenla, especially with the new BluRay player, hust suddenly developed kind of a "half screen split of darkness levels. A straightline split of dark on one half and brighter on the other. The split has actually moved to the left several inches and then back. I ave vacuumed the back, reseated the bulb, check all connections, even disconnecting everything, and turning it on to the menu and the dark shaded side is still there. |
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New member Username: Bigdaddy650rLawrence, Ks. Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | 2003 50" SAMSUNG DLP Tv screen works fine but is black and white????? Thanks in advance. Roger. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 143 Registered: May-07 | Guys, I'm trying to get to as many people's questions and help as many people as possible.. I would hate you guys to spend a bunch of money for someone to tell you that your TV is not worth fixing, or charging you 400 to install a $109 lamp! I am trying to get to everyone on a case by case basis, but it's a lot! I have a full time job as well so bear with me! Roger.. I posted in the other thread.. I recommend chaning your colorhweel.. 2003 samsungs may run while the color is bad and not spinning.. causing a B&W picture. The next generation Samsungs will shut off when the sensor detects the colorwheel is not spining properly. Guides can be found at Fixyourdlp.com or at jangro.com Dennis, The problem you have seems to me to be a collapsing light tunnel.. Call Samsung and demand their help... let them know of your problematic history with the TV.. they normally help. Jeff, I'm glad I could help.. at least for recommending a legitimate lamp dealer at a descent price! As far as your variable input issues. Try to do a factory reset on your TV by entering the service menu... Unplug your TV... wait 2 minutes.. Plug it back in.. ON YOUR REMOTE press MUTE-1-8-2-POWER ... It should open up in the service menu.. Reset everything to default factory.. Let us know how it goes.. If it works pop another Guiness for us! I'm falling asleep here and it's difficult to get to everyone! But don't be descrouraged to post more! I'm here to help. |
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New member Username: Camped69Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | My HLR4266W recently started showing very faint flickering(the flickering is in a rhythym of about a 1/2 seconde apart) and on a few occasions there was a blue/purplish psychedelic haze which just started last night. The lamp has 6827 hours on it, suppose it's time to replace it and give the unit a good cleaning. It is an older one from '05 I believe. I accidentally reset the lamp hours to zero, will this be a problem? Any diagnostic help would be appreciated. Also, any cleaning do's/dont's. Thanks in Advance. |
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New member Username: Devildoge9Leesburg, Va USA Post Number: 9 Registered: Jan-06 | Ovadoggvo, Thanks for responding. If it is as you suspect, a collapsing light tunnel, is it a big repair? The first layer of support made it clear that it is no longer under warranty and I am respnsible for the repair charge. We scheduled the service call and will take it from there I suppose. If it is a high cost repair is it recommended to do it and hope for reimbursement or is it better to negotiate with them first? Thanks for taking the time to respond here. Dennis |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 144 Registered: May-07 | Dennis, I would advise you to fight a little.. if your TV is barely out of warranty and you have had problems with it before, they normally take care of it. Ask for a supervisor, or someone in a higher possition. The Light tunnel collapsing IS a big repair. The service tech will tell you that your light engine needs to be replaced... $1000.Fight now before it's too late! Chris, I suggest ordering a new lamp immediately. intermitent lamp issues do to a worn lamp may damage your DMD board or Ballast if you keep trying to juice the lamp for another few hundred hours. It is NOT recommended. Discount-Merchant.com will sell the lamp for $109.99 + $11.60 shipping.. or free shipping if you order two! You will get it in 2-3 business days after the order... They can also get it there the next day for an extra fee.. Partstore is also another good choice, but you will be looking at 159.99 + $16 standard shipping (which will take up to 3 weeks to receive because they don't stock them.. they drop ship). SamsungParts is another option, however, i've heard and I've seen them ship out aftermarket OSRAM lamps for Philips enclosures so be careful.. make sure it's a philips! Good luck! |
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New member Username: NevsPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | So my HLP6163 (bought 3 years ago) made a popping noise the other night and the tv picture turned to static. I didn't know what else to do, but it seemed like a good idea to turn the tv off. Now when I try and turn the tv on, it hums really loud 3 times (like it's trying and failing to come on) and then reverts to 3 flashing lights. I've taken the lamp out and it doesn't "look" broken, but is it the likely culprit or something else? |
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New member Username: NevsPost Number: 2 Registered: Apr-08 | From above, it looks like it's my color wheel. When I go to discount merchant, they warn me that it's only the wheel and not the casing that they sell - Where would I get the casing (or the wheel in the casing? | |
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New member Username: Blazn420BRooklyn, New York USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | I have the Samsung HL-R4266W. And I have been having issues but not with the screen or image. A few times the TV would raise the volume on its own to the max. Also at times the TV will not respond to remote commands even though a light flashes on the power button on the front of the unit when i press the remote button. A few times it would not respond to the power command on the remote. Most recently I was playing a game on my PS3 and a blue box saying "Not Available" would pop-up for a few moments then go away, other times it would stay up for 20-30 seconds. The times where the TV would not power off I had to unplug the unit from the wall. I've tried different batteries on the remote and even removed batteries on the remote and it doesnt help. I have read some of these posts and Im going to try a Factory Reset later. Any suggestions? | |
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New member Username: Blazn420BRooklyn, New York USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Apr-08 | Posted twice sorry  |
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New member Username: ScottshakerPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | I have a HLP-5685W that has worked flawlessly for a few years. Last night, as we were watching it, we heard a mini explosion, some crackling sounds and then TV went Dark and a Triangle error came up on the on\off panel. I turned the set off smelling a whiff of smoke. I found this Board and assume it is an exploded bulb, and I am ready to order a new bulb and assembly, but I have not opened up the set to see if that is what actually happened as I just found this site. Do you think that it is a bulb issue, or should I call a tech first? Thanks in advance! |
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New member Username: GhengisThousand Oaks, CA Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | I have seen a few people ask this question, but I was unable to find a response: I have a HL-R5668W which is a couple years old. A few days ago I noticed a vertical "shadow" on the left hand side which reaches from the top to the bottom of the screen. It's about three inches thick and isn't a straight line (it's thicker at the bottom than at the top). The line appears to be slowly getting larger. It isn't completely black, just significantly dimmer, like a shadow. Can someone please tell me what this is and how much it's going to cost me to fix it? Thanks. |
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New member Username: Stomp210Post Number: 6 Registered: Apr-08 | Ovadoggvo, I really appreciate the help. There is still something significantly wrong with my HLR5067W. Fortunately I have been able to watch it from one of the inputs. Here are the latest symptoms... The only inputs working without issue are: Component input from cable DVR Monitor input from computer All other inputs either show weak signal or green hue scrambled/pixelated images: Cable input for use with built in tuner HDMI input RCA input from DVD RCA input from VCR RCA input from PS2 Optical output to home theater The strange part comes when I go to check one of the inputs that have a scrambled/pixelated image. If I switch inputs to DVD or built in tuner I lose control of the TV. The remote and buttons on the TV no longer work and after 15 seconds the TV restarts but ends up locked up again. The only way out of this cycle is to unplug, wait, plug it back in. This works once out of 5 times. When it does finally work and the TV starts up I have to be ready with the remote to change input back to one that doesn't have a scrambled/pixelated image. If I don't catch it and change inputs in the first couple of seconds I end up back in the same situation. Can't guarantee it but it appears the scrambled/pixelated image causes the TV to lock up. So as it stands now I can only use the TV for Cable HD DVR and Computer monitor. I tried the factory reset from the service menu but no improvement. I am afraid now to try anything else for fear of losing the functionality I have. Thanks again for previous help and any new insight you can provide. Jeff |
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New member Username: GhengisThousand Oaks, CA Post Number: 2 Registered: Apr-08 | RE: my previous post on April 16, 2008: I did some more digging and it appears as though I am suffering from the dreaded "Shadow" which is a well known issue on Samsung DLPs. Here is some information for anyone else with a shadow on the side of their picture. A thread which discusses the problem in detail: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=758625&page=1 A class action lawsuit which has been filed: http://www.samsungtvshadowclassaction.com/main/home.sfx I hope this helps. Good luck. -Sean |
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New member Username: Dez5000El Rito, NM USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | I have an HLN437W and recently the picture froze with the image turning pure black and white. I powered it off and then tried to turn it back on and after trying to power itself on for a little while I get the three flashing lights on the front. I replaced the bulb & ballast but still get the same error. I replaced the color wheel about a year ago because of the noise issue so what else should I try? The lamp doesn't light at all and I don't hear the ballast trying to start the lamp at all. |
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New member Username: MpdevoPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | My samsung 50 inch tv lamp went out after 3000+ hours --got it replaced and the new one is DULL -- not nearly as bright as the old one --does it need to be aligned in any way? did I get a baad bulb second time around? any Ideas?? | |
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New member Username: DisprPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | Have a hls6187 bought in july 06 without extended warranty =(. My problem started yesterday. The power to my house went out, then came back on about 10 seconds later. Power cycled 3 times before it was finally out for 1 1/2 hours. T.V was off the whole time. Each time power went out I heard a sound from the t.v like when you unplug it from the socket.. Now when I watch t.v, it shuts down after about 20 minutes...Think this may be a bulb issue? of some other major problem...thanks for help | |
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New member Username: ReyesaMaricopa, Arizona USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | Hi! Here's hoping that someone would give me some answers to the problem on my Samsung DLP TV, HLP5663W, purchased in March 2005 with a three-year warranty that expired last month. It worked fine for three years until I got this problem: Red, green and blue colors bleed into the screen after turning the TV on, and watching DVD movies, or cable and HD receiver programs on SD, DT or HD mode. At times, the normal color would come out, but mostly, the picture stays horrible. as shown in attached image. Samsung Customer Service advised adjusting the MCC function but it did not help. What could be causing the problem: Color Wheel? Light Engine? Circuit Board? Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Reyesa
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New member Username: AceplatoSan Jose, Ca USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | I own an HL R5656W and have had an issue and concerns with it occasionally making a loud popping noise, sometimes turning off on its own and with an aggressive shove it would work again, then sometimes not turning on at all and one time losing sound for no apparent reason and last night with a 2 year child asking to watch Toy Story it turned on, the movie started and it shut off and would not power back on no matter what I did. So I pulled it off the shelf and started Googling for clues as to what happened. My philosophy has always been if it's broken then I can do no worse in breaking it more! And with that I found this forum and found some great places to start looking, the references to "cold solder joints(a)", "lamp door switches(b)", pc boards with "heating and cooling issues©", "accumulated dust(d)" and the potentials of "lamp issues(e)" all gave me justification to rip it open and so I did and this is what I found. 1. (b), Pulled the light door and taped the switch in the "on" position. 2. (a and c), I suspected a cold solder joint so I started with the power supply board by pushing on some of the relays (while unplugged) and being very careful to not touch a capacitor (an ouch if you know what I mean). I found a large, round resistor was very hot and realized that it was an indication that power got to this component and possibly no further. I plugged it in, listened and then again pushed on the relays and heard a pop and she started to power up. Released the pressure on the relay and she turned off. Unplugged the TV, removed the power supply board (located on the left side, the power cord runs straight into it) and flipped it over and sure enough cold solder joints, many of them and of the 7 holes for screws only 4 screws had been used by the factory allowing the board to flex too much. I re-soldered the primary contacts (the big ones) and cleaned the board up and put it back in but adding extra screws, plugged her in and she powered up just fine. 3. (d and e), I turned the TV off and unplugged it and attempted to vacuum out the dust and found my Hoover was wanting for the task so I grabbed my air hose (150 psi) and blew out a ton of dust, this TV has only been in operation for a year! I pulled the lamp out for inspection, blew it off and wiped the lens clean with a chamois and then put it all back together again. 24 hours later and no more pops or loss of power and the TV is operating very well. Thank you all for the direction and information to make this repair simple and make a 2 year old very happy! Chris |
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New member Username: Toms94Post Number: 1 Registered: May-08 | My situation is very similar to Jeff Lueckes', except I do get a "twiddle dee" startup sound and then the Lamp light flashes for about two minutes (TV sound comes on and I can hear the station during this time) then it goes to standby for a second and then starts to, for a lack of a better word, "reboot" itself, and starts the whole process over. It doesn't even give me a "glow" or hint of the bulb coming on. This happened about a month ago, but I was able to unplug the set and let it sit for about 10 minutes, plugged it back in and it had worked just fine since. But yesterday I tried the same thing and it hasn't worked. When I plug the TV in it just starts the "Lamp" flashing for a few minutes and then the Reboot process over and over. I have assumed that this is the same issue as others have experienced and ordered a new Lamp (Phillips from Discount-Merchant.com) and await its' arrival to install. If this is a correct diagnosis or if I am on the wrong path someone please let me know. |
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New member Username: RedchickenNorth bend, Oregon USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Mar-08 | i have a Samsung HL-T6176S 61" DLP TV that is only a month old. tonight when i turned it on it made this weird buzzing sound for a bit and the screen didnt come on right away like it usually does. once the screen comes on there is no longer any buzzing sound... any idea what could be making my brand new tv do this... | |
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New member Username: SitoNewton, Ma US Post Number: 6 Registered: Dec-06 | Well unfortunately I'm here again My Samsung 5085w 50" DLP TV seems to be having problems again. Last time the unit would not even power up,and it turned out to be a faulty cable in the base. A $200 fix which samsung did not cover, then factory bulb exploded in the unit luckily not causing any damage. Now this time I have 10 rows of 16 high horizontal bars at the bottom half of my screen. The bars are thin and the spacing between the bars is perhaps 1/2 to 1 inches apart. Any one have any experience with this? Also the lines are always there, in any tv mode my cable box settings, my dvd player etc. The only time the lines disappear is when I go into the Dnie settings adjustment. Heres a picture attached for reference Thanks in advance Sito  |
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New member Username: NevsPost Number: 3 Registered: Apr-08 | So I finally got my color wheel and replaced it (as well as the lamp -for good measure. The color wheel was definitely the problem as it had one of it's six color broken off and shattered. It also looks like it's been replaced before as the on in there had been taped down and was the replacement model rather than the original. Now the TV turns on and comes up. The sound, the color and the picture are great, but we have a slight buzzing or humming. Any guesses on the most likely culprit? Could it be a loose screw, a misplaced color board, one of the fans? |
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New member Username: SitoNewton, Ma US Post Number: 7 Registered: Dec-06 | Scott Shaker What you described sounds exactly like a blown bulb, that actually just happened to me few months ago. Your best bet is to go to fixyourdlp.com look up how to take out your lamp and check if its broken (chances are it is since it blew, you'll want to be careful of pieces of glass) Go through the instructions of finding your lamp model and place an order and replace it. |
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New member Username: LoueegAtlanta, Georgia USA Post Number: 1 Registered: May-08 | Sorry to hear about your about all the problems. From what I've been reading there are couple of parts inside these DLP tvs that you should be concerned about: the lamp, the ballast, the DMD board, the color wheel, the fan, and the light engine. I'd have to imagine that if you're hearing buzzing or whirring, it's probably the fan. It sounds simple, but the same thing happens in cars and computers all the time. It's a heck of a lot cheaper to replace than some of the other parts. Its probably best to get a service manual and take it from there. |
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New member Username: Vatripx4VA USA Post Number: 2 Registered: May-08 | New to the list. Bought a 50 inch Samsung DLP about six or seven years ago when they were really the in thing. Has worked fantastic to this point in time. Replaced the bulb once before, about three years ago. The other night we were watching and all of a sudden this loud noise, sounded like a gun went off, and the TV picture went blank and the TV shut off. Thought it might just be a blown bulb so replaced it. TV still doesn't come on. When you hit power, the green light and the beep comes on for one second and then the whole thing shuts down. Don't know what it is, but before I pay big bucks to have someone tell me it will cost $500 plus to fix, thought maybe someone out there might have some idea. Maybe it's just time for a new model. | |
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New member Username: NevsPost Number: 4 Registered: Apr-08 | Aaron- Sounds like it might be a broken color wheel (which I just replaced in mine) I also got the loud pop, There are some good online sites on swapping out the color wheel depending on your model. Mine was quite obviously broken (1 segment clearly shattered and glass/plastic on bottom of wheel assembly. Might be worth your while to go and look if that's the problem - cost me ~$150 with 2 day mail online at samsung parts. (Of course, I tried a new bulb first - but I probably needed a new one of those anyway) |
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New member Username: PcomriePost Number: 4 Registered: Sep-07 | HL-P5063W Problem: Recently replaced the DMD and noticed that the picture is off center relative to the screen (biased to the bottom and to the right by about 1 "). I loosened and reseated the DMD, no change. Then, since I have the service manual and was able to access the Service Mode and adjusted V-position and H-Position. Did not seem to help as this moved the contents of the picture within the picture but not relative to the tv's screen. What am i missing? Is there another picture adjustment mode or is the new DMD just bad (manufactured defect)? | |
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New member Username: Extra_tPost Number: 1 Registered: May-08 | Hi guys, not sure if i should add to this thread, or create another but here it goes: Yesterday, half of the screen on my HL R5678W started to freeze on whatever it was showing and turn black and white, while the right half of my screen played normally. It did this on all inputs, and cut off on-screen messages. The problem was corrected by turning the tv off, then on again, but shortly after, the left half of the screen would again freeze. Now the left half of my screen won't display at all, and is completely black. Turning it off, then on doesn't seem to help. I've read about similar problems on similar TVs, and the experts said it was most likely the digital board. I'm rather tech savy, and read that Samsungs are modular in their components, so i was hoping to replace the broken part myself once diagnosed. Any ideas which part is defective? I believe i'd purchase it off of samsungparts.com Know which of these parts it might be? Thanks for all your help! http://www.samsungparts.com/search/search.asp?searchflag=byonemodel&searchkey=r5 678w&modelid=376344 |
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New member Username: PcomriePost Number: 5 Registered: Sep-07 | Nevermind, figured out the problem - DMD module has a little play (when all 6 screws are loosened) which translate into a huge shift on the screen - a liitle tedious as it make take several attemps to center the picture just right on the screen. | |
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New member Username: BrazilPost Number: 1 Registered: May-08 | I have a two year old Samsung HL-R4266 that died completely, no sound and no picture. Although there was light in the back throught the lamp door, I replaced the lamp but had no luck. Took it to a service center and was told I needed a new digital board, plus labor almost $700 bucks! What should I do?... Toss a 2-year old like new TV and get a new one? I can afford that every 2 years... Any ideas? Thanks. |
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New member Username: BrazilPost Number: 2 Registered: May-08 | I just opened the large back access of the TV and taped the door switch, turned the TV on and see the lamp is good, the fan is working, a few green lights turn on on the main big board, and can hear a smooth spinning noise that appear to be the color wheel working. But I get no image and no sound... The switch buttom in the center front of the TV lights up, and a green lamp light blinks for about 1 minute (while the lamp on the back is on), and then everything shuts off. Would that confirm it is the digital module? I'm not an electrician but a good handy man, is that something I could replace at home? Please help! Many thanks. | |
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New member Username: BladellSafety harbor, Florida U.s.a. Post Number: 1 Registered: May-08 | I have had similar random shutting off problems. The tech from Sound Advice has changed my light engine three times over the last 9 months and recently also changed power supply. last nite it shut off three times within an hour. Any advice??? | |
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New member Username: UnklvodkaPost Number: 1 Registered: May-08 | Alright, I have a 13 month old Samsung HL-85086W DLP. I noticed last night that I have an off color Vertical Line around the middle 1/3 of the screen (it varies depending on the color). And today, I noticed what look like blown out pixels (with certain colors) sprinkled throughout the screen. WTF is happening? Any ideas? Do I just need to give it a good cleaning or what? | |
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New member Username: BabusunHouston, TX Post Number: 2 Registered: May-08 | Hi, I encountered a weird problem with my HLR5678W last week. I was playing a Wii game and suddenly, the left half screen froze and the right half was displaying the game progress alright. I turned the TV off and turned it on again. Then, I could see garbled (frozen) signal on the left half and proper display on the right (be it DVD/PS3/Wii/Satellite inputs). I turned the TV off again, took off the DLP lamp and took a look. Everything was normal. Then, I put it back in and the screen was OK. But the problem came up again in an hour when I was watching a movie. I shut it down, It was OK the next morning. I am not sure either whats going on. Maybe some issue with the digital board? Any help would be appreciated. |
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New member Username: DjleyPost Number: 1 Registered: May-08 | I've got a weird problem with my HL-S6188. Functionally, everything works except for the on-screen displays, like volume level display, channel number, info display, TV-Guide. Menus work just fine. I couldn't find any setting that might have inadvertantly disabled the displays. Any ideas? |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 152 Registered: May-07 | Shoot guys! I haven't had time to help anyone for the last 3 weeks and look! Like 50 new posts!!! I'll try to catch up sooner or later. Just keep tight. SITO, Call Discount-Merchant.com and ask to speak with "Ali".. Tell him someone on the forums sent you. They have the light engines for your TV brand new. How do I know? They offered it to our company and we rejected the purchase. They are brand new light engines for the CLEOPATRA Samsungs with a new lamp. I don't know how much they will sell them to you form but i'm sure it will be a fair price! Otherwise Samsung wants over $1k. I don't think DM will ask you for more than $400-$500. Make sure you mention the fact that it's a CLEOPATRA model Samsung. It's worth a shot! DAVID LEY, Try a factory reset. Turn off the TV.. Press Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power on your remote.. scroll down to factory reset. See if it helps. Also.. try unplugging your TV for 5-10 minutes then turning it on with the service menu (mentioned above). Good Luck! |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 153 Registered: May-07 | Babu Sundaram, The problem you are describing is a failing Digital Mirror Device Board (DMD). Ryan McMahon, The problem you seem to be having is most likely a DMD board as well. Unfortunate! . . . Don't throw away your TV's guys... I'm sure someone is going to start selling these used at a reasonable price! . . . Bryan Ladel, The problem may not be Light engine or Power supply! Check the remote receptor or button set on your TV! Turn it on, disconnect the button set board and see if it still shuts off! It may be that the buttons are failing intermittently when the TV set heats up. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 155 Registered: May-07 | Vinicious Carmo, The lamp may light up, but if it's not working properly it will shut down again! When did you last replace the lamp? If it was more than 8-12 months ago, try another lamp! Did you buy OSRAM or Philips lamp when you replaced it? Be careful with generic/osram lamps! They will do EXACTLY what you are describing... We get tons of service calls for this type of problem... Every time the customer says "Well i just changed the lamp 6 mo ago." Sure enough.. Osram or APO has failed as promised! You get what you pay for in that situation! If the lamp isn't the problem, take a look at your power supply feed to the ballast... Make sure it's sending voltage. |
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New member Username: SitoNewton, Ma US Post Number: 8 Registered: Dec-06 | ovadoggvo Its the light engine? Really? i figured it would have been the DMD board.... Hrm, I'll give them a call and check it out. You're a life saver Ova Thanks! |
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New member Username: Toms94Post Number: 2 Registered: May-08 | Just an update, my issue was the lamp. Replaced the lamp a couple of weeks ago and she's been working great since. Thanks for the help. | |
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New member Username: RobssamsungPost Number: 1 Registered: May-08 | I have a samsung 61" dlp screen that is almost completely shaded, but for a 6" to 8" strip running vertically along the right edge. The shaded portion is viewable but not enjoyable. Could someone please outline a troubleshooting plan for me. I think I can fix this, but two heads r better than one. Thank you. |
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New member Username: RobssamsungPost Number: 2 Registered: May-08 | Oh! BTW, my model # is HLR6178WX. Thanks again. |
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New member Username: Extra_tPost Number: 4 Registered: May-08 | ovadoggvo, No love for my issue?  |
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New member Username: RodelPost Number: 1 Registered: May-08 | I have a Samsung DLP St61L2HX (there is a U.S. model St61L2HD but not sure if its the same) that I purchased in the Philippines in 2004. Recently, when I turned by set on, the picture will freeze but the audio is fine. I cannot turn the power on/off using the remote or the switch on the set. After unplugging the set and powering it up, I get the same problem again after a few minutes. I called Samsung and they could not help since the set was purchased in the Philippines and the model is not sold in the U.S. Other message boards suggested that I may have a bad DMD board. If this the problem? if so, where can I get a replacement part? |
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New member Username: DjleyPost Number: 2 Registered: May-08 | On screen displays still not working. I tried Factory Reset and User Reset, and unplugging power for an extended period of time. TV wouldn't enter Factory Mode after being unplugged. I know the TV can display them since the Channel display shows up when I first turn the TV on, but never again. Wife complains enough about the complexity of the TV w/o this problem! |
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