Hi, I have MITS WD-52525, 2.5 years old. On 10/11 no problems, on 10/13 it turned on with symptoms below.
Background: the power light is a normal solid green. The lamp is original but dimmer. It has not been moved, no recent storms, it is on a 750va UPS.
Symptoms 10/13: very static-y audio on all sources, mixed with some of actual audio. The picture shows none of the actual source, on cable it is a very static-y (not at all snowy like an unused station) image of dark and light. Video game source is a solid green or blue with some concentric bright single line rectangles, nothing like Halo 3 should look.
The TV menu comes up and is usable, but it shows some distortion like the source behind it. On the video game source the menu has some bright lines and off colors, and on cable it has some dark spots.
I read posts about replacing capacitors and I can do that, using the service manual I found elsewhere I have the chassis out. Is it true that any capacitor with a slight bulge at the top is done? 1 of 4 caps on the DM board is a bit bulged on top, but what worries me is the 6 caps on the power supply board that are bulged. If you're facing the power supply board there are 4 caps in an L on the upper right that are bulged on top, not perfectly flat, and about the middle of the far left there are 2 fat caps that are fine, but then 2 'h0420' in a vertical line just below that are bulged.
Are the symptoms consistent with all these being bad?
Update on my problem: A person in another forum forwarded the pdf of the service manual and using that I found the DM board and power supply board. There were 7 bad capacitors total.
I replaced the capacitors Saturday and put the TV back together *mostly*, not to the point where the rear case fan was plugged in. I had a blinking amber light on the front. I plugged in the case fan and TV still had blinking amber light and also a burning smell. I gave up and went to bed, visions of $800 repair bill in my head.
Sunday I double-checked all my soldering and vacuumed out a bunch of dust and crud from the sticky fabric where the USB cables plug in at the top. I also blew out with air all the boards from above and vacuumed up that crud. The soldering all looked good. I put the TV back altogether and plugged it in. This time I had a blinking green light, such as you normally get when power is restored or reset. When it stopped I turned the TV on and had normal picture and sound. Success!