I got the 9515's today!!!!! wooooooo they banngggggggggggg so nicly, i designed the box at 40hz but the best part about it.... the ride tuned it realllly nice it sounds clean and loud at 20hz and just as clean at 40hz with box rise and all and from my voltage drop guessing on my stock alt.. i think i am only doing about 3.8-4K between the 2 amps that would do 4.4K at 2ohm.. without the rise... but when i move the box further away from the rear (i have to fold the seats down to do this) i moved it about 7inchs from the rear and it got about 3x louder but didnt stay as loud at the lower notes, it went back to the 40hz tuning.... it was loud. I loveeeeeeeeeeee it... pics\vids later on tonight My friends neighbor got in my ride aand i turned it up... he pluged his ears and bailed out of the ride i wish i got it on cam
Im not even seeing a big voltage drop with the 100A stock alt. and one redtop and one yellow top, all on some brand new kicker hyper flex 0gauge Yes i did chad ill have pictures of that to, it looks lots better on the paint then a black window lol. They sound niceee
lol camera problems but i did get one vid and 2 pics ill get a better vid later... but its uploading to roe now.. yes im running like 4.4K or so on the stock 100A i have 2 optimas..yellow in cargo area and redtop under hood, my voltage is suprisingly staying in the 13-14V range when driving and only goes down to the 12.7V range when idle and parked. I dont bang it to long before turning it down to let it charge for a bit.
but Im a electrical engineer, and Im try to figure out what equation I can use to make 4.4krms out of 100amps of current! I cant!
"yes im running like 4.4K or so on the stock 100A i have 2 optimas..yellow in cargo area and redtop under hood, my voltage is suprisingly staying in the 13-14V range when driving and only goes down to the 12.7V range when idle and parked. "
yes, so voltage is okay, but how is current? 2 different apples, dont get caught up with voltage only, cause current is 5X more important.
your majority of current is actually coming from the optimas, not even your alternator... and mostly from the deep cycle batt (yellow)
hope you get a 300a HO alt soon, with an additional yellow in the back...
right now, your prob getting 1500-2000rms, no where 4krms
mathematically, 4 batts will push 4krms to its potential.
But doesnt the voltage drop below the floating point of the battery once current limits have been reached? The subs arent getting all of the power either, i have a 500rms amp on my comps. but if that is the case, i am happier that means once i get the 4 HC2400's and the 300A this should bet lotsss louder
yes, with more batts and current, it will sound like 2 different systems completly!
if the current is maxed out, yes the voltage will dip way lower than the float voltage. by that time its too late for your equipment, cause it only has to happen 1 or 2 times! amp and subs can be lost!
now you say (4) 2400s, you will not only need a 300a, but u will need a good size battery banks, consisting of 6-8batts for full power.
trust me, your looking at spending 1200 in batts just to power it correctly...
put that load on just a 300a, and you will fry the poor alternator. if this is daily I would atleast try to give each amp 2 batts!
thats what i figured, 4HC2400's in the rear with a 1800 under the hood, i figure about 1300$ for that and i just got priced on the 300A for 420~ i forget the exact number but i am still looking for sum1 to make brackets for alt #2 but have never had any luck.. im always willing to buy those lol. my batts never dipped under 12.5V tho B what does that say? i dont get it.. once my alt gets hot, it drops more but i turn it down when im idle and it does that.
ok, well those are some good batts, couple with the 1800 in front, should be plenty strong.
ohio gen makes brackets, but as you know it can be made at a machine shop for less..
your batts never dipped under 12.5 cause its a good batt (optima)
now run a sine wave cd on your system and burp, get your DMM to record your lowest voltage, I bet it dips into the low 10v! the human eye cant see this that fast, so a dmm with a min, or max hold is of good use.
I know for a fact, I ran 4krms on 2 yellows ok, but at burps when the amp needed current to get loud, those batts hit 9.5 v quick!
at idle, the alternator is not spinning at 2000rpm plus, so output current is normally half what its rated on a HO alternator at idle!
stock alternator expect to see 1/4 the ratings at idle!
just makes me feel better that its going to be even louder then i think, but ya with a sine wave im sure its gunna dipp really bad but these stilll are doing very nice on the power they are supplied with
ill have pictures of that to, it looks lots better on the paint then a black window lol. They sound niceee 
i been cruisin breakin them in all day.. they are getting alot louder and staying just as clean 
