I forget where I was reading it, but I read somewhere on ecoustics that a guys system mightve died or his amp mighta blown when he jumped his car.... Here's my question... IF my battery ever dies or i leave my lights on or w/e, whats the safest way to jump my car to guarentee I wont mess my stuff up. Should i just disconnect the power wire from the battery.
Also, my Kicker 0/1 kit came witha 300 A fuse and thats why I have hooked up right now and I hope to soon have a kicker zx1500.1 and a kicker zx350.4....is that fuse too big for that setup to be run safely and what not, or should I swap in my 100A?? Thanks guys
I'm not going to give suggestions because I don't want to be reliable if something happens but with my old car I had to jump it about 5 times in a week and nothing went wrong with my system. Also, a friend of mine's old car also was jumped... A LOT more than mine was and his never had problems (although it had problems from the beginning by the fact they were no name amps and subs.) lol
jumping your car shouldnt effect the system i dont think.... i jumped my ride once....... and jumped people from my ride plenty of times... but i agree with wolfman..... pull the inline fuse, and if you have a battery in the rear that is dead as well...... PULL THE FUSE or its gunna burn out when it trys to pull all that current from the other cars battery to charge up your batterys. And charge the rear battery with a charger not the Alt. ... if u decide to do it with the alt. you might need to get a bigger fuse or just put wire between it for the fuse until it slows down on how much current the rear batt. is pulling from the front.
You only change the inline fuse by the battery when you change the wire size you use. Changing the amp has no effect on the fuse and it shouldn't be changed. That inline fuse protects the wire actually, not the amp Amps have their own fuses.
oleg, that does not only protect the wire.... the purpose of the fuse is basically so if there is a short in the system anywhere following the fuse it will blow, this can come from the amp itself even. The fuse size has to be big enough to pass the current your trying to get or it will pop, having lets say a 100A inline fuse and a amp with 3 40A fuses =120A your inline fuse will probally be blowing out on you. jumping the car with the fuses in is fine but if u do have a spare battery or bank of batterys in the rear... and they are all completely dead, your fuse probally wont make it if you have the jumpers on the other car for long, they would be trying to pass basically as many amps as the car your connected to can offer.... my guess probally about about 500A (not at 14.5V of course) mainly from battery, and then whatever else the alternator has to offer.
btw no i wouldnt swap it with the 100A, the 100A will pop because it cant get enough current. You would want like a 150-200A fuse. If your running the amp at .5ohm just get a 200A (more current needed for .5ohm)
On my old car my directed 1500 had 3 40a fuses and the 500/2 probably had a 40a fuse or so and my power wire's inline was only 80a. I ran that for about a month and no fuses ever blew. I then upgraded to 150a.
Did you always have it at full vol. or where its pulling more then 80A? It ussualy takes a bit of time to get that hot without a true short in the system and your wires by the fuse get hot. somtimes you get lucky.... and your fuse is rated at one thing but actually does another..
That inline fuse should only blow when there's excess of current or a short between battery and the fuse. I don't think the fuse will blow if the short's elsewhere. That's from what I've learned.
Amps have their own fuses.