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New member Username: Liverider2003Fort Walton Beach, Florida USA Post Number: 5 Registered: Dec-06 | Ok...I hooked up my Power Acoustik ovc-1600 the other day. The car was fine all day long. Then the next morning I went out and tried to start the car to go somewhere and it did not start. I looked at the center console and realized that I did not close the flip out monitor(For some reason, the monitor does not fold back in on its own when you turn the key off). I thought that maybe this killed the battery. I jumped it and it was fine throughout the day. Next morning(this morning)...same thing. This time, the monitor was closed so that was not it. I disconnected the amp's power wire this morning assuming this was the problem(nothing was wrong before I hooked up the amp). The car already had an amp and subs in it when I bought it...the guy went down on the price of the car some if he could take back his amp and subs...so he un-installed them...but left the amp wiring kit there...so I don't know what the deal is. Any ideas? For now, I will just wait till tomorrow morning and see if it starts...now that the amp is disconnected. |
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Silver Member Username: Andrew571Stillwater/Edmond, Oklahoma USA Post Number: 323 Registered: Oct-05 | u drained the battery the first night, the only reason it started is because u jumpt it... once its jumpt you are supposed to go get another battery... you CANNOT charge a dead battery - the only reason ur car was running is due to the idea of a ur cars electircal system... the alternator now go out n buy a new battery and dont leave lights and other things on @ night |
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Gold Member Username: Dustin3Tigard, OR U.S. Post Number: 4393 Registered: Oct-05 | i would look at the battery posts and see if their corroded and grayish at all. take a wire brush or something that you can scrape with and scrape the + and - posts on the batt so that the post is BRIGHT SILVER. and then scape in inner portion of the + and - terminal also.. so it also is bright silver. tell me if that helps also, make sure your amps rem wire is not connected to a hot 12v constant lead... so make sure the amp isnt on when the car is off |
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New member Username: Liverider2003Fort Walton Beach, Florida USA Post Number: 7 Registered: Dec-06 | Nope...the terminals are brand new. And battery is fairly new as well...zero corrosion Quick follow up....There is an led on the amp that lights up green when there is power to the amp. I just remembered that...and went out and hooked the power cable back to the amp. turned the key on and checked the light. It was lit up green of course. Turned the key off and took it out of the ignition...the light was still on. I did not run the amp wiring(a professional did...but it was not the guy I bought the car from...the owner before him did it)...so I have no idea how it is all run/hooked up. I looked under the hood at the wire coming direct from the + battery and traced it along...came to the fuse and there was no fuse...the dope that I bought the car from had a piece of foil rolled up and stuffed into the fuse holder...so that is one thing I need obviously...but not the reason the amp stays on when the car is off. BASSMAN3...about the remote wire...I think you are right...I will go have a look again and try to find where the remote wire is connected to....because the amp does stay on when the car is off. |
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Gold Member Username: Dustin3Tigard, OR U.S. Post Number: 4401 Registered: Oct-05 | haha. he took foil and put it in the actual fuse holder? wtf anyway, you need a new fuse, make sure you get the correct amount of amps. what kind of fuse is it? YEP!! and thats your problem, your amp is staying on so its draining the battery over night. The "professional" who is not obvkously, prolly hooked it up to a solid blue wire behind the HU, which is the power atenna wire, it needs to be hooked to the remote lead behind the HU (whiich is blue wire, with a white stripe) is it an aftermarket HU? |
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New member Username: Liverider2003Fort Walton Beach, Florida USA Post Number: 8 Registered: Dec-06 | Yes it is an aftermarket HU. I was wiggling the wires around where they all connect to the amp...and noticed that the power to the amp came on and off when I did this. I saw that the remote wire was actually coming in contact with the power wire which was the constant source that made the amp stay on. I fixed it and it is not touching in any way now, and it works fine...amp turns on and off with the ignition as normal. Thanks for mentioning the remote wire...never would have thought of it. Yes...there was friggen foil in the fuse holder. I don't know what fuse I need. I guess it is called and AGU fuse as seen here: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-4MGg1lYdyu8/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=211AGU40 But I don't know what amp rating I need. I think maybe a 50amp? It is a power acoustik ov2 1600. 1600 watts max...740 RMS bridged...370 RMS x 2 channels. I am only running one channel at 370 rms. Does radio shack carry the fuses I need? Would like to get some fuses some place local if possible. Thanks! |
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Gold Member Username: Dustin3Tigard, OR U.S. Post Number: 4413 Registered: Oct-05 | yep, if your fuse holder is for a AGU fuse, then you need the AGU fuse. with 750 rms runnin (and 4 awg wires), i would get a 90-100a AGU fuse and you will be fine. most car audio places have fuses, and i'm sure that radio shack will prolly carry them. glad you found the problem |
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Gold Member Username: Dustin3Tigard, OR U.S. Post Number: 4416 Registered: Oct-05 | bump |
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New member Username: Liverider2003Fort Walton Beach, Florida USA Post Number: 9 Registered: Dec-06 | Thanks a lot man for the help...appreciate it! Later, Corey |