I'd separate the cap from the PPI and use it solely on the sub amp. After all that's where most of the benefit will occur anyways. Like I always said in the past, if the caps are used properly, it can be beneficial.
MO, if you're going to smaller power wire at the dist block, IMO, it would be better to just use the cap as the block. Here is a diagram to check out.
In the first one - You're using 9 feet of 0 gauge wire, going into 2 four gauge strands that are one foot each.
In the second, (assuming the cap/amp placement is the same) You'd use like 8 feet of 0 gauge, then 2 feet of four gauge to amp b, then a foot of 4 gauge to the cap, then another foot of 4 gauge to amp A.
So you'd not only have more wire by adding the dist block, you'd have more wire - of a smaller gauge, to boot.
People say "hook the cap up to the mono amp only" etc, but in reality, it's still part of the same circuit, regardless. As long as it's the same distance to your mono amp in either situation, increasing the distance between the cap and your other amps, wont have any positive effect. (In example one, there is a foot between the cap and your mono amp, and your other amp, whereas in example 2, there's a foot between your mono amp, and 3 feet between your cap and other amp.)
Mo - I'd stick with the way your installer did it.
no problem using the cap as a distribution point. ou can even buy cap-top distro blocks. I have one I believe, sitting in my parts bins. Tsunami makes them if I remember.
Does using a cap for both amps cause any noise to come thru to the speakers. Because when i go from volume 0 to 1, i can hear some stereo sound that sounds like very low channel static which im sure is commen but im not 100% sure. I cant notice it once the volume is over 5.
Just curious because when i had the cap running only to the ppi art before i got the 1500-xxk sub amp it was fine.
What exactly is a ground loop. I just here a small amount of interferance comming into the signal when i go from 0 to 1 volume. As i raise the volume i cannot hear it since the music over powers but i dont like how its there anyways. Im sure you know what im talking about. I was thinking its a ground problem also.
OK i went out to the car and disconnected the power line going into the arc amp and no more signal noise when i have it at low volume. When i go from 0 to 1 its quite now.
Now how should i have him rewire this all so that it does not cause noise again ?
Tell the guy to install the cap only on the sub amp, and have the PPI amp it's own ground, not shared with Arc. If the installer's any good, he should be able to get rid of the ground loop problem.
Actually ignore the separate ground for PPI. Let the installer figure it out. That way, he can't blame you. Just memtion that you have a ground loop issue with his install.
thanks for the tip isaac. I will need to use the distribution block for this right ? Looks like he used 8 gauge wire from the cap to the amps. Should i have him do 4 gauge or is 8 gauge enough since the lead is 1/0 gauge ?
no its just hanging out. I havent reconnected it. I believe if i do it will cause sparks and go back to noise. I havent reconnected it yet until i have it checked out this saturday. Im taking it to a bestbuy that actually has really good installers. The master installer of the shop sound knowledgeable over the phone and even has his info listed at the12volt.com
The guy who installed the arc amp says it makes noise because it pulls alot of current.... IM not sure if that is true or not. IM just worried that if the next installer rewires everything with the cap to the subamp and ppi amp seperate that it may cause noise again. Is it a ground problem ? If so why did it the noise go away when i removed the power wire from the arc amp that goes to the same distribution point/cap.
MO, the noise you hear is due to ground loop problem.
"Ground loop is a condition where an unintended connection to ground is made through an interfering electrical conductor. Generally ground loop connection exists when an electrical system is connected through more than one way to the electrical ground. When two or more devices are connected to a common ground through different paths, a ground loop occurs. Currents flow through these multiple paths and develop voltages which can cause damage, noise or 50Hz/60Hz hum in audio or video equipment. To prevent ground loops, all signal grounds need to go to one common point and when two grounding points cannot be avoided, one side must isolate the signal and grounds from the other."
Trust me, I've had that problem with my install also. It takes time to trace and fix it, but it's not impossible.
So its better to ground both amps at the same place right ? Thats how it was done originally but i guess its not the best ground. I think he grounded it under the back seat where the seats are connected to the chassis of the car from what i remember him telling me. He says he cleaned out any paint etc.. Should i just have it grounded somwhere else and if so where. Its better to avoid 2 seperate grounds huh ? let me know
By the look of it, it's not grounded well since you're getting ground loop noise. Since you paid money to have it installed, have them fix it. Behind the seat isn't always the best contact. I've had to make my own in the trunk with better contacts.
So you whould have drill a hole in your trunk somwhere then and use a bolt to hold it down after you have taken the paint off. Isnt it suppose to be under 1 ohm load for a good ground using a DMM ?
In my trunk, there were some steel frames, so I used that as my ground for the d block. Used a much better screw and washer with a nut. You can't measure a "good ground" with DMM. It'll just show 0 ohm. If however, you're lucky enough to have a device that measures 1/1000th of an ohm, then it's possible.
