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New member Username: IrishfredPost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-05 | I recently replaced my HLN507w lamp, ballast, and "ballast fan" (upgrade from Toshiba to Philips system). My TV was occassionally not switching on for the last few months. I would unplug the TV and then plug it back in, and it would fire up. After a while, it would not turn on even after unplugging, and I thought that it was the lamp. I ordered a Toshiba replacement lamp for my set, and after installation it worked for about two hours. It then failed during viewing, and I thought that something else was wrong. After trying to restart the set, it would not fire up (as before). I then gave it a light "slap" on the back side and it fired. I thought the ballast was bad. Instead of purchasing a ballast (around 170-180 dollars) and adding that to the cost of the lamp ($210), I decided to go with the Toshiba to Philips conversion kit. It includes the lamp, ballast, and an additional cooling fan that is installed on a bracket. This all comes at a price of approximately $235. The people at the various internet sites will tell you that this kit is "non-user installable", and they will not know anything about this kit or it's contents. Because of this, I am sharing my experience of my personal user-installation of this kit. They have limited instructions that come with the package (it has no mention of the fan at all, where it should be installed, and where the connection is for power). The lamp model number is BP96-00224J. The ballast model is BP47-00008A. The fan is a cheap fan that looks similar to the DMD fan, except that it has a steel bracket that attaches at the base. Take off the rear cover from your set. Remove the lamp assembly from the TV (two screws at the base and it pulls out with the handle). This is what I initially thought would fix my problems. I am not so lucky. Next, the ballast has to be removed. There are 4 screws that hold the original ballast in place. Go ahead and remove those screws. There is a plug that attaches to the lamp that is held in place with one screw. You can see that from the side quite clearly. Go ahead and remove that as well. Remove that power cable and let it dangle freely. Next, there is a power wire that attaches to the top of the ballast (two leads) and another wire (three leads) that attaches above that wire that leads to the DLP engine(or something else in the heart of the TV). Remove that as well. The ballast should be free to remove after this step. You will notice that the old Toshiba ballast has a substantial heat sink/dissipator. The new Philips ballast has a single metal plate that is the heat sink. I suppose that this is why this kit has an additional fan supplied - to cool this thing down. Also that wire that I previously described in the last paragraph(three leads that goes to the DLP engine) has four leads on the new ballast. Not to worry, the package has a special "four lead to three lead" wire that you use to solve this problem. Next, get ready to put the new ballast in place. The new ballast will not fit perfectly in the alloted space - only two of the four holes will align. This is acceptable (in fact, the poor directions supplied told of this). Go ahead and affix the two screws nearest the rear of the set. Attach the new power lead that leads to the lamp. There is a brown U-shaped piece (feels like ceramic) that attaches to the plug space. This is like an adaptor that allows the female (ballast plug) to fit into the male (lamp plug). The ceramic piece is screwed in place by a screw on the right side, and then the ballast plug is attached over the ceramic piece and secured by a screw on the left side. (I hope this is clear - it took a minute to figure out how these pieces align while I was working). Next, plug in the power to the ballast (right side, nearest to the rear of the set). Then you must attach the last wire (however you must use the supplied wire - as it has four leads instead of three). Follow this wire to the insertion site and replace it (this took a fine pair of needle-nose pliers, and was the most difficult part of the whole installation due to the small clearance). Your new ballast is now installed. Here is where I struggled. I could not figure out where this supplied fan went. I went to bed, and then the next day I took a look again and figured it out. The fan attaches directly above the ballast, horizontally. There are two insertions where the screws fit from the bracket. These screws are not supplied, so I used one from the back panel. Make sure that the fan is pointed towards the ballast, with the flow of air towards the heatsink. I believe that this is the side of the fan label towards the heatsink. Ascertain this once installation is complete. The fan power supply is located next to the power supply to the other fans. This is located to the left of the cooling fan assembly for the main lamp (below the computer dvi cable). The correct slot is the one with the white "loop" (actually a dead spot for an extra power supply). Remove this loop and insert the wires for the ballast fan. This is basically the entire installation. The most difficult step is the installation of the new wire (four prong ballast side to the three prong TV side) due to the small amount of clearance. Other than that, it is pretty straightforward. I also loosened the "input" panel and the silver "dvi" panel and pulled them partially out to clean the DMD fan of dust. I hope this helps someone out there if they are so inclined to try this themself. My TV works perfectly now - ballast fires on the first try. The lamp also seems to be running cooler as well. Good luck. |
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New member Username: IrishfredPost Number: 3 Registered: Dec-05 | I should mention that the kit that I used for my Samsung was BP96-00435A. You can find it online easily. |
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Silver Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 379 Registered: Aug-05 | Irishfred, Great post(s)! These are the kind of posts we need here! Maybe JVC needs to look into DROPPING the Toshiba TS-110Uaa lamps and going with Phillips also. https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-video/176314.html |
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Unregistered guest | I had the same problem with the Toshiba lamp and ballast on my HLN507WX, and contrary to the information on samsungparts.com, the lamp conversion kit works fine on this model, too. It is a great deal to get a new Philips lamp and ballast for only $219. By the way, the lamp in my kit was the newer J version, not the old C version as indicated on samsungparts. I do have some suggestions on the kit installation, in addition to your excellent posting. First, I found it impossible to attach the replacement cable to the DMD board, and to replace the ballast without first removing the digital board and the ballast/fan assembly. Fortunately these parts are very easy to remove and reinstall. To remove the digital board (the large canned circuit board in the center of the set), first remove the plastic connection panel cover (8 black screws), and then remove the 4 black screws (2 at the top and 2 at the bottom) of the digital board's metal mounting frame. Detach the right hand side connectors, slide the whole frame out, and swing it out of the way to the left. This gives much easier access to the DMD connector, and allows you to clean off the DMD heatsink and fan, which were filthy on my set). To remove the ballast/fan assembly, simply remove 2 silver screws on its bottom left hand side. Slide it a bit to the left to disengage the tab which holds down its right hand side, and it will pop out easily. (I had to remove the whole assembly to get access to the ballast screws.) Finally, one other thing had me greatly confused. The original 3-wire cable from the DMD board to the ballast had one blue and two white wires, with the blue wire down on the DMD connector. The replacement 3-wire/4-wire cable had the blue wire on the other side (top) instead. The connector will only fit one way, but don't be surprised if the blue wire changes sides - it still works fine. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 548 Registered: May-05 | This is great stuff! Digital photos would be a real plus. |
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Silver Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 417 Registered: Aug-05 | Yep, photos would be a great plus in ADDTION to the excellent write ups of the procedure(s).... BUT, keep in mind that on most boards that photos from posts seem to be deleted after so long.... (so many days?, or when thread is archived?) Translation: Keep in mind when doing a write up that if the pictures are no longer there, it's hard to follow along on what is being done. (Have you ever run accross a post/site/thread with some good info... and the write up depends on those pictures, instead of a detailed write up?...:-( Keep those detailed posts coming! Good stuff... * * * Maybe JVC will do some kind of retrofit kit on the D-ILA based sets to address crappy (very short) lamp life.... allot of people saying they have gone thru several lamps... and the set isn't even a year old! https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-video/176314.html |
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New member Username: HighvoltagePost Number: 2 Registered: Feb-06 | Great post! I just did mine and I wouldn't have tried it with out running into this post. thanks Fred for posting this,and follow David's instructions unless you have mirrors and small lights. Let's hope that's end of the problems for a couple years .later Nick |
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New member Username: IrishfredPost Number: 4 Registered: Dec-05 | Glad that this posting has helped a few people. My tv is doing well after fixing this problem. I also focused the lens on my tube - it is posted on another forum (avs). There is a lot of good information over there as well. |