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New member Username: DavidbPost Number: 1 Registered: May-05 | Advice on buying the 5063W. I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on the new models coming out. Apparently the new model (5064W) will have a faster processer and a new colour-wheel which supports CMYK instead of RGB. However, I can get the 5063W for about $500 off the current price. Should I buy or wait? |
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FYI Unregistered guest | Garrick, Haven't needed to. What's up with it? Do you mean THX or service menu? David, Your "new" model number doesn't exist. The 63 had some production issues. Folks who worked through warranty repairs are mostly satisfied. Some had no issues whatsoever. Lots of refurbs, though! http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?sort_type=price&masterid=3029802& isbn=&pid= The HLR xx67 models are a big improvement over the 63's. The changes are significant enough to warrant the extra $. The 720P chips are twice as fast at switching. The screen is the new floating design. They have CableCard (useless) and digital tuners. They are available now for not much more. The big money sets are the HLR xx68, 78, & 88 models. They will be available within 2-3 months and are the 1080P chip. http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?sort_type=price&masterid=7752057& isbn=&pid= |
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New member Username: Stevewest07Post Number: 1 Registered: May-05 | I bought a Samsung HLN5065 about a year ago. After about a month it began to emit a definite hum from the rear of the machine. Samsung sent out one repair crew who thought the problem was a bad color wheel. They replaced it, but it didn't fix the problem. They then said that the noise was normal. I called the customer service line again to complain and Samsung sent out a more experienced tech. He replaced the color wheel again, explaining sometimes the motor is out of adjustment, even when the wheel is not broken. This still did not fix the problem. Has anyone had a similar problem? Is a noticeable humming normal? It's particularly annoying during times when watching movies or TV when there isn't much background noise or music. Is there a fix? Thanks for any help you can offer. |
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To Steve Unregistered guest | It's either the fan or the power supply if the color wheel isn't the actual culprit. Damn tech should have stuck around long enough to figure that out. Test: When you turn the set off, nothing runs but the power supply and the lamp's cooling fan until it kicks off a minute later. If you still here the hum when you turn the set off, it's not the color wheel. Is the hum somewhere other than the lamp area? If so, it could be the power supply. If the hum is in the lamp area it's most likely the fan. |
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New member Username: PopperLenapah, OK USA Post Number: 1 Registered: May-05 | Bought a HLP4663 3 weeks ago. 2 days ago the picture goes blank w/ the 3 lights flashing. Called Samsung who then put me in touch with local repair. Just talked to guy at repair shop on the phone and he tells me to unplug and plug in TV. I told him I was still just getting the 3 lights and then it seems the set turns itself on/off a few times. He said I need a DMD? Will be bringing one tomorrow. I hope this thing's not going to be a lemon! |
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FYI to Rich Unregistered guest | Rich, The lamp needs to be reset or replaced. You do not need a Digital Micro-mirror-Device. (DMD) Do not let this repairman take the set or you for a ride. It's BS!!! For now: During power-up, slap the back of the set near the lamp panel a few times lightly. It will fire up. Just leave it on 24/7 until the lamp is reseated or replaced. All will be fine. |
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Bronze Member Username: KlausHoliday, FL USA Post Number: 24 Registered: May-05 | Rich: I had a similar problem with an earlier set and pulling the lamp out per the instruction manual and reseating it did the trick for a while. Note though that the service tech replaced the lamp and it immediately did the same thing so it may have been a ballast failure. I didn't wait to find out and returned the set which was a CC open box "special". |
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New member Username: PopperLenapah, OK USA Post Number: 2 Registered: May-05 | Thanks for the response. I took the lamp out and slid it back in (if that's reseating) and I'm still getting the flashing lights. Maybe just a defective lamp like you said. |
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New member Username: Stevewest07Post Number: 2 Registered: May-05 | Thanks, for the tip. I'll try that. If it is the fan, would replacing it silence the noise or is this just something I should live with? Steve |
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To Steve Unregistered guest | Fans are silent from a viewing distance. When standing beside the set it sounds like a fan. There shouldn't be a hum at all. Make'em fix it! |
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CerealKiller Unregistered guest | I have a 50" SAMSUNG HLP5063 DLP TV and it is a couple weeks old. Been loving my new TV but I just encountered something twice now that bothers me. Twice now I have turned the TV on from being off for quite awhile and the entire screen has a red tint to it. I shut it off for a few seconds and then turn it back on and is fine. What is causing this? |
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New member Username: Dlp4meDallas, Texas Post Number: 4 Registered: May-05 | Check the component video cable connections if that's what you're using. Make sure they are fully seated. Try a different connection method. If the problem persists it could be a bad video board. This is not a typical problem of the 63 series. |
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New member Username: DcapMcLean, VA Fairfax Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-05 | I have a Samsung DLP that I purchased in March,2005. The last two days, about 1/2 hour after we turn it on, the volume automatically goes to zero (no sound). The volume bar appears on the screen, but if I hold down any button on the controller, the bar will disappear. But nothing else happens. I cannot get the remote control to work. If we turn the TV off for about 2-3 hours, we are able to get it to work again. But then after 1/2 hour, it does the same thing with the volume. Anybody had this problem or have any idea what is causing it? I am going to call my warranty people up, but wanted to make sure it wasn't something simple I was missing. DCAP |
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jpc12345 Unregistered guest | can anybody tell me the difference between the hl-r4667w and the hl-r 4677W. what kind of chips do each have? which has the newer generation chip? which has the better picture? which is the one with more value? which one is recommended? |
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Bronze Member Username: KlausHoliday, FL USA Post Number: 74 Registered: May-05 | the 4667 has the newer chip and the faster color wheel. It has a faster switching chip as well. That said, the 4677 is a thinner set with almost no screen bezel. It is the "Tantus" version, kinda like the Sony XBR sets. Both are great sets. I have the 4674 which is the earlier version of the 77 and it is fantastic. |
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Anonymous | Hey Guys... I found a good post on another blog. Check it out, it was my problem exactly. |
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mojo Unregistered guest | (temp light after tv shuts off) i turn the tv on after 1 minute it shuts off then the temp light kept blinking panasonic pt45lc12 |
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rollout369 Unregistered guest | Has anyone experienced hearing loud popping noises coming from their TV? It seems to be coming from the back of the set, not through the speakers. It happens on mine after about two hours of use, which leads me to believe that it has something to do with heat. It reoccurs every other hour or so as long as the TV is on. Any idea what is causing this and how it can be fixed? Thanks. |
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SkipChuck Unregistered guest | Would someone please post a picture of the screen smudges or post a link to an existing image of them. |
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Bronze Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 67 Registered: May-05 | rollout, Sounds like the expansion and contraction of the removeable back to the cabinet. I've heard of this before and the guy took the back off. He used a silicon grease on the edges and replaced the back making sure the screws were not too tight. He said the popping stopped. SkipChuck, They look like a water blotch because two screens are touching each other. You can't mistake it. The cause can be static electricity, heat, humidity, misalignment of one or both screens, etc. 1-800-SAMSUNG is aware and has posted a technical service statement. There is a replacement screen available. mojo, Wrong thread, bud! Try starting a new one. |
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rbneron Unregistered guest | I own a 5663. When this TV works, the picture is fantastic. However, it's been trouble since day one. Troubles include: - not being able to turn on television (Samsung finally replaced circuit board) - "mode" or "input" buttons turning off TV (similar to above; I did not use the center on/off switch)...problem 'corrected' itself - intermittent black out (may be a DirectTV issue; problem eventually corrected) Now, I'm getting a flashing green "lamp", but the picture never comes on. Manual states that picture will come on in 15 seconds (never does). Trying the infamous "unplug and wait", but so far, this hasn't correct it. Any ideas on the last one? Set is just over a year old |
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Bronze Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 69 Registered: May-05 | If it cycles twice and then all three lights flash together I would say it's the lamp. Since you didn't describe it this way it may be the ballast. Try slapping the lamp housing area a few times during the power up. If it fires up, leave it on 24/7 until you obtain a new lamp and/or ballast. You will need a new lamp soon anyway, so, I would buy one from Samsung Parts and try it first. Do you have an extended warranty? If not, you can still call 1-800-SAMSUNG for an authorized service contact. |
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rollout369 Unregistered guest | FYI, thank you very much, I'll try that and see if it works |
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Unregistered guest | I'm in the process of purchasing a HL-R5067W with a Gen-5 HD display device that has the 720p display format. I'm having second thoughts after seeing the new spec. for the HL-R5078W with the Gen-6 HD. I'm trying to decide if the 1080p display format is worth waiting for. It sounds like they should be shipping them in the next few months. I figure the price may drop on the older models after they ship. |
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Male24Dan Unregistered guest | I just purchased the HLP5085W from Best Buy. It looks absolutely stunning and I love the TV; however, I cant use my PS2 with it as it has about a half-second delay, (I dont have a progressive scan option in my PS2 because it is an old model). I called Samsung and they told me that this model has issues with PS2 but the guy told me the HLR5087 does not. Is this correct? Can the HLR5087 support gaming with a PS2 without the delays? I am currently using the best PS2 Component cables I can and still I have the delay. What is so different between these two models that will guarantee me no delay with the 5087? I am about to return the 5085 to Best Buy and purchase the 5087 online so I need to know for SURE if this will take care of the lag. Thanks in advance!!! Daniel |
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Bronze Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 99 Registered: May-05 | They have addressed the game lag issue in the "R" models. Several folks have reported problems with PS2 and Xbox. Here is one quote. Helpful Smurf Bronze Member Username: Helpful_smurf Post Number: 15 Registered: Jun-05 Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 10:02 pm: I played SSX3 on it, a snowboarding game that requires very precise control to pull off the more difficult tricks and had no issues with it at all. It's a game I've played countless hours on so I think I'd notice a difference. HS That said, the PS3 will be a far more compatible machine with these new sets and will offer HD format gaming. |
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New member Username: TcnineKenner, LA United States Post Number: 4 Registered: Apr-05 | I posted in April about a screeching noise that was emanating from my HLN5065. Thanks to the posters here I was able to narrow it down to a fan (Part no. BP31-00002A) and replaced it. The noise subsided but is now back. While replacing the fan I noticed that there was another fan larger than the one replaced in the same area of the light engine. My question is could the replacement fan be bad or could this other fan be the problem? Does anybody know how often these fans crap out? The set is not quite 2 years old and is used sparingly as I am out of town much. I have to assume that it is not the color wheel because I was previously told that if I turn the set off and the noise is still there for a few seconds it is a cooling fan. thanks again. Tom |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 101 Registered: May-05 | Two cooling fans...hmmmm! Are they too close together to tell which is the culprit? Is it making the exact same noise? The fan closest to the lamp is the one that runs for a minute after power down. I don't know about the other one. It's possible to power up the set while the back is off and pinpoint the the offender. If it's the one you just replaced they will certainly swap it out for you. Fans should last many years. I have the same fan in a 98 computer that runs 24/7. Still sounds like a fan. I clean it with compressed air once a year. |
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Unregistered guest | i have the 5063w model right when the warrenty expired im getting a loud vibration noise and the screen is black and white . im figuring its a color wheel problem . anybody have this replaced or know how much parts will cost. please post if you have had similar problems with your samsung DLP tv |
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Bronze Member Username: KlausHoliday, FL USA Post Number: 78 Registered: May-05 | Lefty rev: there is a new air bearing color wheel which replaces he older style. If you contact Samsung if you are close to the warranty period they may still replace it for you. These were a big issue on many sets . |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 107 Registered: May-05 | leftyrev, Try 1-800-SAMSUNG. **********7267864. Prompts = 2 then 1 then 3 then 1. Tell the rep you hear noise and have a B&W picture. Let them discover how close you were to a warranty repair by simply answering their questions. If they don't offer to fix it at no charge, ask for the Executive Customer Relations Department. Plead your case. Tell them you can't afford the part, much less the labor. If they still refuse, call them back and go through the process again, and again until they cave. They have been fixing these wheels out of warranty. SamsungParts.com BP96-00674A ASSY COLOR WHEEL P SVP-50L3HR $210.53 Labor = $150-$200 |
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Unregistered guest | thanks you guys ssooooooo much , i contacted the original place where i bought it from and they wanted to charge me for all repairs then i read your post and called Samsung , told them the deal and they said they would extend my warrenty another 3 months just to get this fixed . i didnt have to haggle with them at all . |
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New member Username: TcnineKenner, LA United States Post Number: 6 Registered: Apr-05 | Thanks FYI. The fan I replaced(Part no. BP31-00002A)was the fan that sits above the circuitry board. It's small, about the diameter of a cola can. The other fan I am looking at is the cooling fan for the light engine. I would estimate it's housing is about 4" x 4", so it's larger than the fan I replaced. I imagine that it could be the culprit although 2 different fans going bad seems unlikely. Perhaps the smaller replacement fan I installed isn't good. Could you tell me how to power the set on with the lamp door open so that I can diagnose it? Also, if it is the light engine cooling fan do you know if those are hard to replace? Thanks again. Tom Collins |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 110 Registered: May-05 | Hi Tom, If it won't power up with the back off or the lamp door open, my guess is that there is a safety switch that is depressed when these are in place. It should be easy to locate. Tape should hold the switch closed. I would use a section of 3/8" tubing to listen and find the noisy one if it's not clearly obvious. It's an old engine mechanics trick. I would think any fan would be easy to replace. Let us know what you find out. |
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New member Username: TcnineKenner, LA United States Post Number: 7 Registered: Apr-05 | Once again, FYI, great advice. The safety switch is depressed by a protusion in the lamp access door cover. I used an unopened pack of gum and wedged it in between the switch and the rear panel. Using my tubing that you suggested neither fan seemed to be a source of the problem. For the fan that I replaced all I heard was a sucking noise from the movement of air. The lamp cooling fan is harder to get to because it is shrouded and the light engine abuts against it. But poking around the shroud and the louvres that vent the air outside I could not hear any discernible noise. That leaves me to believe that it is my color wheel that is the guilty party. I could hear it distinctly when I moved the tubing to the space between the bottom of the cabinet and the light engine. I'm not sure but I haven't read anywhere that the light engine has moving parts. When I powered down the tv I kept an eye and ear on the light engine and after a 1 to 2 sec delay the lamp went out and the whine stopped. The tv is out of warranty by about 15 mos. so I doubt that Samsung will do anything for it. Truth be told, it might have been doing this for a while but was masked by a bad fan that I ignored until it got really bad. I'll look at previous posts to find the part number for a wheel and how difficult it might be to change. Hoepfully not too bad. Again, I appreciate your help. Tom |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 112 Registered: May-05 | Well...let me share a couple of posts. You might want to try the same thing. Try 1-800-SAMSUNG. **********7267864. Prompts = 2 then 1 then 3 then 1. Tell the rep you hear whining noise. Let them discover how close you were to a warranty repair by simply answering their questions. If they don't offer to fix it at no charge, ask for the Executive Customer Relations Department. Plead your case. Tell them you can't afford the part, much less the labor. If they still refuse, call them back and go through the process again, and again until they cave. They have been fixing these wheels out of warranty. leftyrev Unregistered guest Posted on Friday, July 15, 2005 - 04:39 pm: thanks you guys ssooooooo much , i contacted the original place where i bought it from and they wanted to charge me for all repairs then i read your post and called Samsung , told them the deal and they said they would extend my warrenty another 3 months just to get this fixed . i didnt have to haggle with them at all . It's worth a shot! If they won't budge...it's not that big a deal to replace the wheel. Two top mounted screws and two small wire harnesses and it slides up out of slots in front of the lamp. |
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leftyrev Unregistered guest | update: they fixed it this morning . called them friday they came today no problems . the color wheel was smashed in a million pieces the tech. said it might have happened because of turning the TV off and turning it on again too quickly . have to teach the kids not to do that . the tech even replaced my bulb for free . he said i was logging too many hours for one year of use , i cant help it everyone watches TV in my living room lol. i got a feeling this TV is not gonna last too many years in my house . thanks again FYI |
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leftyrev Unregistered guest | oh another thing i wanted to ask is there anywhere i could download a servise manual for my TV . it would be nice since my warrenty is gonna run out and i was looking at the tech work on my TV , if the color wheel problem happens again i dont think i will have a problem fixing it myself . he took out the whole tray with the fans , color wheel , bulb housing . just a couple of screws and it all came out pretty easy , he let me inspect the parts as he worked on them . nice guy |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 127 Registered: May-05 | It probably looks like a new set. How nice to have a new lamp installed as well. Samsung comes through again. Can't say that about some other brands. Congrats! Best wishes! |
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Anonymous | Samsung came through for me today, too. My set simply shuts down after watching for 10 to 15 minutes...then the lamps flash (front panel) to indicate that one of the fans isn't working. When I called the CSR, she said they would take care of it and extended my warranty by 3 months, as it acted up just prior to warranty expiring. It's not fixed yet, but nice to see someone come through for their customers. Can't say that about a S*ny product I had, which acted up DAYS after the warranty expired. They wouldn't touch it. |
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Unregistered guest | This forum is great I have a HLP5063W, that I purchase on June 28, 2004. Today, less then 3 weeks after mfg'ing warranty expired I had my first problem, all controls on the remote and on the set only turned the TV on and off. If the TV was on and I pressed the volume it would turn off, try to change the channel the TV would turn off. If it was off any button or function key would turn it on. I called CC, since I had the extended Warr, they told me the first a[ppointment available was in 9 days. Scheduled for that day, but could really wait 9 days. Found this forum, and Tyler Eaton's post with the same problem, then saw what caused it (he posted the fix the next day). Tried his fix and it worked. Now have my TV back without waiting 9 days. (see Tyler's post below) Tyler Eaton posted the following on Saturday, May 21, 2005 - 09:50 pm: Having a problem with my Sammy HLP5663... every button on the set/remote turns the tv either on or off. Performance wise it seems dandy (my std source its stuck on looks just fine) but I'm unable to change the source or do anything (picture size, etc.) or the tv turns off. I have no blinking lights on the front panel, no noises that I'm aware of, and it isn't particularly hot.... Any thoughts? Oh, and even pressing the mode button (to change the r/c to tv, std, aux, etc) turns it on/off which I thought was just weird. He then followed witht he following post on Sunday, May 22, 2005 - 04:15 am: In response to myself: Turns out the power was stuck half depressed (That silly circular power button in the center of the set) and that was causing every button press to turn the set off... Very odd, but now that I have popped it out everything works fine. Such a weird thing to happen... |
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New member Username: JohnhenryPost Number: 4 Registered: Feb-05 | What DVD players do you folks use on your Sammy DLPs? I just went through the macroblocking nightmare on my Denon DVD 1910 on my HLP4663 and am looking to try to avoid the Faroudja 23XX chipset in all current Denons that are prone (atleast on my display) to bad macroblocking. I'm looking at upgrading to an NAD T534 or the new Marantz DV7600. |
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GranTurismoFan Unregistered guest | I am a newcomer to HDTVs and a few weeks ago, I stumbled across Samsung's new line of 1080p DLP rear-projection sets. I was very excited about these new sets and was considering purchasing one. Now, a few weeks later, I stumbled across this message board and am having second thoughts. I am a gamer and would be using my TV in conjunction with my older bulky PS2 and eventually a PS3. Does anyone have any suggestions on what TV I should buy? I am looking for a widescreen set anywhere from 40 to 60 in. and want the highest quality gaming experience. I also want a reliable set that will not cause a lot of problems. Thanks for all your help! |
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Anonymous | If you want the highest quality gaming experience with a new HD RPTV you will need to abandon the PS2. It was made for direct view CRT. It will work on HD RPTV's, but it won't be the highest quality. Either wait for the PS3 HD version or look into xBox or pc gaming. The new 16:9 HD RPTV's are made for enjoying digital Enhanced Definition and High Definition programming, which is what you should base your purchasing decision on. They will all display games with varied results, but that's not what any of them were made to do. That said, the Samsung "R" series is gaming very well so far for most people, even PS2 owners. There's no need to second guess the direction you're going. |
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rodril7 Unregistered guest | I need to decide between a HLR5667 and the HLP5674. I'll connect either with a sat receiver and DVD, any suggestions? |
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An Avid Gamer Unregistered guest | I am looking at a Samsung HC-R4755. I would be using this set primarily for gaming with a PS2 and Gamecube for now and a PS3 and Revolution soon enough. I would also be watching DVDs and possibly DirecTV. I am wondering if anyone has any experience with this set or others in the same line (HC-R4355 and HC-R5245). I would appreciate anyone's opinions. Thanks in advance for any help. |
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yustr Unregistered guest | I have a newly purchased 4663 ($1600 at CC new in box - was this a good price?) So far I love it. Everything went together great. But, HD from my DishNetwork is good but not stunning. Not noticably better than my DVD player. Question: is there a way to see what the resolution is? The manual doesn't seem to mention it. Can I change this? Or is it always in 720P? Also, it takes a long time to switch between inputs (DVI>SAT>PC etc.) Is there a way to speed this up? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 144 Registered: May-05 | No...you can't speed up input switching. Yes...it will always display 720P. You can press info on the remote to see it. Any input signal will be scaled to the set's native display resolution of 720P. Since the signal of HD is digital it will not be degraded in any way, especially if you use a DVI or HDMI connection. Using a component (Pr, Pb, Y) connection is excellent too. Any other connection will degrade any input signal. If "Sunrise Earth" on HD Discovery doesn't look absolutely stunning and much better than your DVD you need to get your eyes checked. The proper viewing distance for that set is 8 feet or greater. |
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New member Username: CarlsbadboltfanPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-05 | Nice forum here. I've got a problem with my 1 year old Samsung HL-P5063 DLP. Went to turn it on and got an odd checkerboard pattern. First thought it was my Satellite box (Hughes HD TiVo through HDMI port). But it doesn't matter what iput I select (using the Tv/Video button on remote. I have called Best Buy as I do have the extended warranty. Much to my surprise the service departmen is open 24/7. I'll have to call the local service co they use in the morning. Thought I'd post this anyway just in case one of the gurus here knew of a quick fix. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 145 Registered: May-05 | Hi Rob Unplug it from power for a minute. Try it then. If it's still whacko, repeat. If it doesn't return to normal after three tries you have already done the right thing. Don't let any service guy tell you it needs to go to the shop. That's a ploy to inflate their profit. Your warranty should say "In Home" service. Make them own up to it. |
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yustr Unregistered guest | I take back everything I said about the HD picture on my 4663. Last night I tuned in a baseball game on ESPNHD - wow. It turns out the light from a nearby window was masking some of the picture. But once the sun set - WOW (there's that word again). Question: Dish only has 4 HD stations. Are the over-the-air network broadcasts of similar quality? I'm told I can get them here on the CT shoreline. |
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New member Username: CarlsbadboltfanPost Number: 2 Registered: Jul-05 | Thanks, FYI. I've left it off all night and still get that funky checkerboard pattern. Service is set up for Thursday AM. *SIGH* I'll just have to live with my 27in set until then. :-) |
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blueline Unregistered guest | Hello all..Planning to buy HL-R5067. Need help and/or suggestions for this 65 year old techno-ignoramus. I've been reading these communications and have found them interesting and at times way over my head. My current set up is: 3year old regular tv, 6 year old Samsung VCR, set-top cable box and broadband supplied by Cox Cable, San Diego, and 15 month old Emachines Media Center pc. I can watch and tivo tv on my computer via infra-red sensor literally scotch taped to the infra-red sonsor of the set-top box. When and if I purchase the HL-R5067 a Cox Cable tech will "hook things up". Cox will supply a DVR set-top box manufactured by Scientific-Atlanta.(Obviating the need for the VCR). Samsung advised that their tv remote codes 41 other manufacturers, but will not code this set-top box, tho the set-top box's remote will code the tv..????? How is this done? Is this a potential problem? Also, Samsung advised that connecting my media center pc to the tv's D-sub 15 pin input will not produce a quality picture. My only interest in this hook up would be to watch Major League baseball.(MLB.tv)on big screen.(an $80 a year subscription) Any solution to this? This is not essential. I can continue to watch MLB.tv on my pc. Picture quality now varies from watchable to decent. If and when I pull the trigger on this deal I'll wait and see how things look and operate. Any comments or suggestions as to what cables I might need for optimum results? I do not plan to hook up any games, etc. except possibly a DVD(progressive scan I'm told). I will be very appreciative for any and all explanations and suggestions in very simple language that this seasoned citizen can understand. dvr |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 148 Registered: May-05 | dvr, Sure! It's very possible that the STB will have a remote that can control the Samsung set. Your media center pc most likely has an s-video output that you can connect to the set. Nice set choice! That's mine. I love it! If you buy a Samsung HD850 DVD it comes with an HDMI cable. From the STB you can use component (Pr, Pb, Y) cables. Target and Walmart has quality Phillips gold ends for half the price of Monster cables. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 149 Registered: May-05 | yustr, You haven't hooked up a UHF antenna to your ATSC tuner yet? What the hell are you waiting for? Off -air digital network broadcasts are twice as nice as regular VHF. Dish only offers VHF local network channels right now. Some sporting events and many primetime shows are broadcasted in true 720P or 1080I HD for FREE!!! Yes, that's right...free HD primetime and sports! The rest of the digital programming will have black bars on the sides, but will be displayed in twice the lines of resolution. It's very nice!!! If an indoor UHF antenna provides too flaky a signal then get an old style Winegard or Radio Shack outdoor antenna and run some wire. Man...will you be happy you did! |
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blueline Unregistered guest | FYI thanks much for your quick reply. I will take your suggestions. "yous guys are genius". I sincerely admire your knowledge and understanding. i've been price shopping. I presume you all know, but just in case some of you don't, GEEK.com llists 34 merchants selling the HL-R5067 |
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Bronze Member Username: JimkwColumbus, Ohio USA Post Number: 48 Registered: Jun-05 | blueline, You can get it for around $2,075 at several places using pricegrabber.com. Here is the link: http://ecoustics.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php/masterid=7752057/blsrt=1 |
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blueline Unregistered guest | JimKW will call them (American-deals) later this week. They don't show the stand, TR46x3. Abes's of Maine has it for $2097 and the stand for $290. Best Buy has the stand for $259. thanks again for yours and FYI's help |
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Unregistered guest | I have 5063 DLP and after 1 month started seeing green tint on all dark scenes,both tv and dvd.Samsung sent out a tech and he replaced colo wheel but I still have teh same problem.DVDs now look good but tv looks horrible during dark pictures.I have Dish Network. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 152 Registered: May-05 | I had the 63 model for a year and enjoyed it very much. I'm shocked that a tech thought a color wheel replacement would be the answer to your green tint issue. In any case, you may have received a better color wheel for his effort. Because you say, "DVD's now look good, but tv looks horrible" it makes me think it's input or settings related. My 63 held different user settings for different inputs. I adjusted the picture settings on the DVD input during a THX session prior to the "Ladder 49" DVD, then when I switched back to the Direct TV input my settings didn't carry over. I had to adjust them to match. Another time I found that my picture settings were back to default values. Changing the "Mode" from Standard to Dynamic changed them too. What are the connection differences? Is the DVD connection DVI/HDMI or are both component (Pr, Pb, Y) or what? One time my blue cable wasn't fully seated in the set. Check this out and try different inputs or cables. Have you tried adjusting the color weakness? I had to adjust mine, which is why I ask. It's in the "Setup" menu at the bottom and I had my green on 3. My other settings were: Picture Mode Standard Color Tone Normal Contrast 95 Brightness 45 Sharpness 20 Color 43 Tint...was greyed out and disabled due to Pr, Pb, Y input use. My DNIE was always on and my digital filter off. If all else fails get the tech back out to adjust the service menu settings. I hope you find something here helpful. |
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dniko Unregistered guest | Hey guys, I got the 61"dlp, I heard a large screeching noise the pic went black all three light on the front went on, It started to turn itself on and off with a mild kind of whining noise. Unplugged it waited a few hours plugged it back in the top light flashes as does the middle but the bottom one is off now and pic is still black, and still hear mild whining noise any suggestions? |
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Bronze Member Username: Helpful_smurfPost Number: 34 Registered: Jun-05 | If that's a 6163 I'm betting it's your color wheel bearing. Call for service. HS |
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dniko Unregistered guest | To add on to the other thread tried to turn the tv on again plugged it in turned it on still no pic still got the whining noise but the tv turns itself on and off repeatedly, im thinking its the lamp that needs replacing. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 156 Registered: May-05 | Call 1-800-SAMSUNG Prompts 2 then 1 then 3 then 1. They will fax a request to your local factory authorized technician today. Lamps and wheels are usually in stock. |
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dniko Unregistered guest | Got the tech coming in today which is amazing I'll let you know what happens, it kind of pisses me off cause i spent so much money on this thing (hln617w), when i first researched it there really wasnt any problems now im checking these threads out sounds like alot of people are. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 158 Registered: May-05 | It's not a big deal. The 63 series is a great set. I had a P5063 for a year. Fabulous picture! I would still have it if a swap opportunity had not come along. I have the R5067 now. Samsung service is excellent and problems are resolved without recurrance. |
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New member Username: CarlsbadboltfanPost Number: 3 Registered: Jul-05 | Hey FYI- Service folks just left and said that my 5063 needs a new "DMD". They don't have one in stock and won't be able to install it until Mon-Tuesday next week. Do you know what the "DMD" is? |
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Optic Roy Unregistered guest | Hi Rob Digital Micromirror Device |
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Unregistered guest | I recently purchased a HLP5067W. The screen has this white glare in the middle/bottom of the screen. Has anyone else experienced this?? |
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A Researcher Unregistered guest | Here's a link to a site with a good video explaining DLP tech. http://www.plus-america.com/papers.html |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 168 Registered: May-05 | Randy, I guess you mean that you see this glare when the set is off. This is a normal condition of the screen as it captures any room light. If you see it with the set on, then there must be a light source like a window or a lamp in just the wrong place. |
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frustrated Unregistered guest | Have a Samsung hl-r5067 with a Motorola cable card. The cable card worked well at first, then started losing channels. Now the tv recognizes that the cable card is inserted, but won't download any digital or hd channels. Comcast has replaced and re-initialized the card several times with no results. The same set works fine with a box. Neither Samsung nor Comcast will take responsibility for the problem. Any suggestions? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 188 Registered: May-05 | Yea, don't use CableCard! That way you won't lose channels, the guide, pay-per-view, or your mind. Personally, I think that cable is the worst, most inconsistant signal source for big screen tv's, especially when it comes to standard definition. I have Direct TV myself. Have you seen this thread? Guess not! https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-video/103212.html |
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Bronze Member Username: Helpful_smurfPost Number: 45 Registered: Jun-05 | My suggestion is, get a cable box for crying out loud. When you suggest getting cable box for some reason people act like you're telling them they need to put a dead rat in their living room or something. I've never been able to undesrstand it. The benefits of a digital cable box are awesome. Free On Demand content, onscreen channel guide, recording functions all can be yours if you'll just give up that bizarre bias against cable boxes. HS |
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Unregistered guest | Well, Samsumg repaired my set yet again...this is the FIFTH service call on this set, but who's counting. Last problem was that the set would simply shut itself off after 10 minutes or so (with one of the "fan" lights blinking). Now, another problem. Shadow detail is terrible, and the picture (particularly in darker scenes) looks posterized. I had to reset all of the contrast, brightness, etc. with my Avia disk after the service call, which improved things somewhat, but I never recalled the posterization problem prior. This is seen with both the HDMI (DVD) and DVI (DirecTV) inputs. Any suggestions, or should I just contact an ISF technician. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 192 Registered: May-05 | Which set is that? Explain posterized. I didn't like the DVI connection from my Direct TV receiver. I prefer component (Pr, Pb, Y) connection. I'm running my contrast wide open at 100. I'm not overdriving my color. Mode is Standard Color Tone is Normal I adjust the brightness and color level for each program if I need too. The more brightness I use, the higher I raise the color level. |
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Anonymous | Sorry; it's the 5067W. "Posterized" is similar to running 256 colors instead of thousands or millions; instead of a nice, gradual shift (say, across a blue surface that changes in tint gradually), the colors appear discrete, with sharp, blocky transitions. It's most obvious in the dark shades, like shadows, but I note in all colors. It appears on any of the inputs, and was never there prior. I can't get rid of the effect by changing any of the settings, and see it in Cinema, Normal, or Dynamic mode. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 193 Registered: May-05 | After the third service call Samsung will replace the set and may give you options on the choice of replacement. Call 1-800-SAMSUNG, prompts 2 then 1 then 3 then 1 as I'm sure you have memorized by now, only this time ask for the Executive Customer Relations Department. Tell them the latest problem and request that they replace the lemon. They will do it. |
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Unregistered guest | Hi, I have a DLP Optical Engine for the HLN5065W or HLN4365W this is BRAND NEW and is the part needed to repair ANY problem related to the "three blinking lights" error codes. The part includes the DMD module, color weel, lamp, balast, fans, lens and heat sensor. If you need this you know it retails for $1600.00. I am asking for less than HALF of this. Send me an e-mail at ssgenesis1@hotmail.com if you are intrested. Or check my listing on EBAY, copy and paste this link http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem%26item%3D5794783846&sspagename=ADM E:B:AAQ:US:1 THANKS!! |
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Stumacdo Unregistered guest | Hi, Been looking through these posts so see if anything specific to my situation, but no luck. Here's my question. I have the Directv HD-Tivo with a new Samsung HLR5067-W purchased 2 weeks ago. I'm running HDMI from the Sat Rcvr to the HDMI input on the Samsung. Problem is that if I set the Sat Rcvr to output/record in Dolby Digital, the audio on the HD Channels ONLY cuts out, while the standard channels are o.k. However, if I leave the Sat Rcvr Dolby Digital output/record option off, the HD channels' audio comes through on the TV. Does this TV have some problem relaying the HD HDMI Audio feed to the TV when Dolby digital is selected ? I know I can run the audio optical output direct to my audio receiver from the sat receiver, but I'd like to be able to listen to HD audio through my Samsung without turning on the receiver every time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. |
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Anonymous | FYI Silver Member: I followed your advice; the gentlemen at Samsung told me that the call is "escalated", reviewed, and then a decision is made as to next steps. The process can take 5 business days. Also, I typed in the wrong model number: it's the HP5663WX. I asked for a replacement set. Will let your know what comes out. |
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Anonymous | Silver Member: Samsung REFUSED to offer a replacement set, nor will they allow me to choose an alternate service center. Suggestions? I've had 7 service calls with 3 separate issues on this set to date. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 199 Registered: May-05 | There are no gentlement in Executive Customer Relations. Never let them rest. Keep calling over and over and over. Squeaky wheel gets the grease! Ask for the next level. Ask for information about the person your attorney needs to contact. Ask for their names. Tell them it's for your local tv station and newspaper. Be relentless! Call three or more times a day, every day! Don't give up. They will give in. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 26 Registered: Jul-05 | Get rid of it. Learn a lesson and buy a HD RPCRT while you still can. IN a few years that technology will be much better and actually tested...and a lot cheaper. YOur RP or directview CRT will still be very good. They can achieve 10 year life easy. That is not something that can be said about the latest digitals,,,,..and if they do last you will spend another $800 or more in BULBS!!! Enjoy. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 200 Registered: May-05 | tom bong, You are not providing realistic advice since this person is past any possible return/exchange date. Your opinion is not helpful. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 28 Registered: Jul-05 | Fix it and sell it. Wait until the technology is worthy of thousands of your dollars. When that time does come, and it will..it won't cost thousands of dollars. Its funny this is a rear projection thread and there are so little issues related to CRT RP. My point exactly. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 202 Registered: May-05 | These are mostly problems with CRT sets. There are others. You must be new here. https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-video/108250.html |
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Bronze Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 32 Registered: Jul-05 | a 10 year old Misu with issues???? Thats your example, You had to dig pretty deep in this forum to find that, Most of the issues I see under the RP forum has to do wioth DLPs, LCDs and PLasmas. I came here becasue I was thinking about buying a digital TV. All the issues here and at other Forums certainly went a long way to convincing me the technology is not ready fopr the masses. Yeah you can say there are many happy owners, But I won't spend $3k on pie in the sky. ONly whats real and these long threads of people having issues are real and I am sure represent a small portion of ownership. And those who buy the useless warranties as well. Read about the "experienced" technicians who visit your homes and "fiddle" with your $3K Tv's. Scary at best. NO thanks. CRTs are still relavant and will be for years to come. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 207 Registered: May-05 | Like I said...you must be new here. "dig pretty deep"? No! it was 8 or 9 posts down. The post dates are all recent, if you had bothered to look. Some poor CRT owner bumps it to the top every few days. The sad thing about reading the thread is that nobody has an answer to their (out of warranty) problems. Post after post is either unanswered or someone tells them to abandon the set or call a technician. The same fate will find you, eventually, without a doubt. Especially since you don't have a newer CRT set with a "useless warranty". |
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Anonymous | I have an HLN4365W that will not turn off. I do not see any of the 3 lights on the front lighting up except when I press the power button on the remote. Only the top one blinks with the IR pulse. I didn't really want to unplug the set as I thought it was bad to disconnect power before giving the lamp time to cool. A couple of months ago the set would not turn on. Only 2 of the lights blinked. I disconnected the power then reconnected it effecting a "reset". But this time I'm stumped. Terry |
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Bronze Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 37 Registered: Jul-05 | ONE THREAD? You are proving what point with ONE thread? How about the hundreed others with DLP/LCD issues? NO one can answer those either except to say..."Thats not normal..call Samsung" The a no nothing tech rep may show up and start messing with your expensive wall hanging!!! LOL My Toshiba RP is doing fine after nearly 10 years. If it goes tomorrow I can happily say I have gotten my money's worth. NEver had a problem. (Saved $300 on a warranty and thats just three hundred of thousands of dollars I have saved in those restful sleep "insurance policies.") I was looking to replace my Toshiba because its to old to fix should it go. BUt I can keep it until it does go and watch the prices fall on the new stuff and issues get resolved. I don't think it will last THAT long. SO I am looking for another HD RPCRT model to hold me over. In retrospect, If I would have had the issues reflected on these boards during the first or after a year I would be very dissapointed and angry. But the RPCRT technology was not new and unproven. I have no empathy for someone with a 10 year old Mitsubishi (your famous thread example) or any 7-10 year TV that is having issues. The TV lasted long enough. Time to get a new one. In my opinion it is better to stay with that technology in HD and pay less for it today, unless you really want to take the chance of having the myriad of issues that are reflected here within these threads in the first 2 years! Not me. If I spend $2-$4000.00 on a TV or ANYTHING I DEMAND it be troublefree and have a long trouble free life. Seems with most anything BUT today's TVs that can be achieved. |
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Anonymous | Oooooo.....tom DEMANDS it to be troublefree! LOL What a bonehead! |
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Bronze Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 41 Registered: Jul-05 | Those who do not demand when speding thousands ona product trouble free use of a product are the real boneheads...see above. But then again its the boneheads who are beta testing the technology and that are paying for all the R&D...So I guess gratituse is in order. |
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Anonymous | Proofread your type, bonehead! I see you are still beta testing your education. You insult fixed pixel buyers, then you thank them. Insult them, then thank them. Over and over and over. How absurd! We have sharper, clearer, more brilliant displays than any CRT will ever render. A few glitches in a few units, no problem! Well worth the eye-poppin window on reality. You must be incredibly jealous. |
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TerryW Unregistered guest | Terry here again. The lamp did finally shut off and the fan stayed on for about an hour. I disconnected the power to attempt a reset. When I turned it back on the lamp light flashed steadily for about 30 seconds and the unit turned itself off an back on again. It repeated this 2 times before turning off and leaving all 3 lights flashing. I read through the rest of the posts in this thread, pulled my lamp and did not see any visible signs of failure. Is there any way to check it? Is my lamp toast? |
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Anonymous | Terry, The lamp is on it's way out. You were better off with it running 24/7 until you replaced it. Get it going again and do just that. How many hours did you get? |
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New member Username: TerrywPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-05 | Anon, Probably about 4300 hours. How do I get it going again? I tried the "give-it-a-kick" method, but it didn't come back. Is there a technique to it? Thanks! Terry |
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New member Username: TerrywPost Number: 2 Registered: Aug-05 | Also, if I get it going again where can I look to see exactly how many hours are on this bulb? Terry |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 210 Registered: May-05 | Reading the lamp hour meter requires going into the service menu from a power off state, then exiting the service menu by powering off. I think it's more important to get in running again if possible and not risking the power off cycle. Press the power button and slap the lamp housing area a few times during start-up. If it has any life left in it, the lamp will fire up. |
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New member Username: TerrywPost Number: 3 Registered: Aug-05 | OK. I tried that with no success. I guess the lamp is gone. I have also seen there could be a problem with the ballast. Is there any way to determine if it is a lamp or ballast issue? Or do I need to try replacing the lamp first and then the ballast if the lamp doesn't fire up? That's like replacing your battery when in fact it was your alternator that was bad. Surely there must be some way to diagnose the real problem. How can I tell? Terry |