I got an ex-demo amp because it was cheap and i was gauranteed that it was in fine condition. It's a 600w US Audio 4ch Amp and I am running 1x 10" Pioneer subwoofer from it in bridged mode ch 1+2. The amp seemed to run fine at first then after a day or so it started to cut out every once in a while and come on again at random times sometimes seconds sometimes 15-20 minutes. When the amp cuts out the power light on the amp is off also. First I thought that it could be an earth problem so I rechecked all the wiring and made sure that the earth was touching bare metal. I even replaced the cars origional earth lead from battery to body. This made no difference and the amp still cut in and out randomly. Next I figured my alternator maybe isnt good enough to keep the battery charged So I went out and spent $200 on a battery and charging kit so the amp can run from the 2nd battery on its own. I thought that this would solve my problem but the next day the same thing happened. Today I spent hours trying to get the amp to run and it wouldnt power on at all until I went to show a friend and ask for help and then it worked fine??? What could be the problem????
What fuse size are you using with the amp? Is your gain/level control set properly? Is your sub DVC or SVC? Does it meet amps bridged minimum ohm requirement? Sometimes a fuse won't blow. This doesn't mean it's adequate. I've seen situations where an amp shuts off cause of it.
The fuse that is in the amp itself is 40amps. That is standard for most amps isn't it?? The gain and level control are set under half this shouldnt effect if it turns on anyway should it?? The Sub is a svc but once again the amp is what is not getting power and when the amp turns on the sub works fine. The amp is running at 4ohms in bridged being a 4ch amp and its a 4ohms sub.
What is the fuse size near the battery? If you have a DMM, check each fuse in the amp. One of them could be half blown. You never know till you test and inspect them. If your amp went into protection mode, then it's a different story, but to shut down completely, it means there is no power. Check your remote wire. It could've gotten loose over time. Fuse, remote wire, and power wires are the only 3 things that will have any effect on your amp. Just curious, when your amp shut down, was it overheating at all?
abe
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maybe your amp cant handle your subs. how high is the volume? try wiring the subs different
Isaac: I'm not to sure what a DMM is but the Amp only has the one fuse. I can't remember what the fuse near the battery is off hand but the wiring kit was 1000w amp rated and I only have a 600w amp. Could it be a busted capacitor inside the amp?? As for heat the amp could be working when I shut my car off and then the amp may not work when I start it again later so I don't think it's a heat problem. It's always just at random times.
Abe: I only have 1 sub and it doesnt matter if the head unit volume is on 1 or 51 it still cuts out the same at random times. I will try the amp on ch3+4 and see how it goes and if that works i will take the amp back and get a new one.
ok same deal today amp worked fine this morning on the way to work and during my lunch break got half way down the street on the way home and the amp cut out and didnt kick back in. I just went for another drive about 20mins round and it didn't kick in then either. I checked all the connections after work to make sure than nothing had come lose and they are all firm.... I really think there could be a problem with the amp internally.
if it is a 4ch amp , are you just running one side with that sub? if so switch sides and see if its a problem with that side if not get a new amp, aw sh it get a new amp anyway
ok Isaac I did what you said got a DMM and tested the amp while there was no power to it.
With Ignition on ACC Remote 12.2v amp power 0.0v....... hang on a sec battery to fuse 12.7v
I opened up the fuse holder and the fuse looked fine... then I noticed that the fuse had been arcing inside the holder that was a loose fit which i thought wasnt right. I took it back to the place where i bought it from and they replaced the fuse holder and fuse with a new one. They guy said that it's not the first one that had been returned. I wired it up tested it with the DMM again and BINGO.