I have a Rockford Fosgate P8002.Thought it was a good amp to get.anyway i have it pushing just 2 12" HU's briged but the amp keeps cutting off when i listen to it for awhile.Is there anyway of keeping it from doing that.Is it just getting to hot.I have a 4 gauge power wire with no fuse,i figured that was the problem.when i bought the wires they gave me a fuse holder without a fuse so i figured i would just leave off the fuse holder.If anyone has any suggestions i'd really appreciate it.
Well you need a fuse, make sure you put one in your power wire (it will protect everything). Make sure you add the fuse and holder about 1 to 1.5 ft from the battery. So make sure you put one in there. Also check you ground, dont just look at it. Make sure it is very, very tight. Lastly, which way is the amp mounted? Air flow and operation will be better if the AMP is mounted Vertically, not horizontaly- like flat.
You need a fuse, but it's obviously not the problem in this case, b/c the amps fuses would have blown if it was drawing too much current. The fuse is to protect the car's electrical system, not the amp. What impedance are the subs and how do you have them wired? That amp requires a 150 amp fuse at the battery, by the way.
o ok the manual just said 120 watt but i'll look for a 150.i have 2 Rockford Fosgate 12" Hu's briged i believe they r 800 watt..i'm not even sure if the amp is getting enough power either cuz the fosgate symbol doesn't get real bright and blinks when it hits all my other fosgate amps have always had a continious bright light.but iono..preciate all the help though
If the manual says 120 use 120, I got 150A from the website. Sounds like you have a current delivery problem, and that can definately cause the amp to overheat because the voltage rails will "sag", basically it leads the amp into clipping prematurely.
yeah i was gonna do it all along i was suppose to get a fuse when i bought the amp kit but it didn't come with one i just wasn't sure if it was gonna solve the cutting off problem or not..
I doubt it. A fuse is a fuse, it's either blown or not. It has no function other than to blow on an overload. You still need a fuse for protection, though, but it's not the source of your problems. What impedance are your subs and how are they wired?
If you have a multimeter I'd check the voltage to the amps at zero volume with the car running(the logo is dim then right?) If you've got close to 14 volts there's probably nothing you can do to increase the "steady" brightness level.
At the moment a cap might help with the blinking, but you'd probably be better off investing in a higher output alternator(if you can't keep 13-14 volts up) and that may solve both problems. If not you could get a cap afterwards to help with the blinking.
I encourage any potential future head unit designer to make me an EXTREMELY simple head unit . Here goes: Volume(analog) Power that turns on and off when I push the volume button, track change, preset change for FM/AM, and source change. That's it. K grade 24 bit DACs, 96khz sampling rate. Zapco 16V Symbilink preout (1). Copper chassis. DC/DC converter leading power to it. Black faceplate that actually blends in cosmetically to a car interior. No motorized crap, no flip down faceplate. CD slot. No fancy displays either, a simple backlight in yellow and black numbers will do, and all that they read are either the station, or track number of CD and elapsed time. Is that so much to ask?
. Here goes: Volume(analog) Power that turns on and off when I push the volume button, track change, preset change for FM/AM, and source change. That's it. K grade 24 bit DACs, 96khz sampling rate. Zapco 16V Symbilink preout (1). Copper chassis. DC/DC converter leading power to it. Black faceplate that actually blends in cosmetically to a car interior. No motorized crap, no flip down faceplate. CD slot. No fancy displays either, a simple backlight in yellow and black numbers will do, and all that they read are either the station, or track number of CD and elapsed time. Is that so much to ask?